Yearly Archives: 2022

not the bees!

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This post is about a 25km walk from Gogan to Cerghizel. I end up sleeping in a place that is full of the animals which I fear the most. In the morning Pastor Gabor took me to his neighbor Feri. He and his family were the Germans I had heard about the night before. They […]


songs in the forest

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This post is about a 26km walk from Prod to Gogan. I have to take a detour because the way through the forest is unsafe. The campground turned out to be fantastic. Dara and her mom Cora had horses, a pool, a few cabins, and a kitchen. There were some cats and dogs (one of […]


without you

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This post is about an 18km walk from Sighișoara to Prod. I leave town without Werner, I hate the road, and I worry about bears. No, I can’t forget that evening or his face as he was leaving, but I guess that’s just the way the story goes. And so, definitively wernerless, I tossed the […]


divine spirits and impalers

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This post is about a visit to the Church on the Hill in Sighișoara. I see a graveyard and the house Vlad Dracula was born in. Another day in the old town of Sighișoara. stairs I had noticed the entry to an encased stairway the night before. It was called Scholars’ Stairs, and it had […]


look at me not giving a fuck

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This post is about a day in the old town of Sighișoara. I walk around looking for Werner the dog, but I can’t find him. Do you like dogs? I asked the owner of the hostel. When she wanted to know why, I told her that maybe, just maybe I would be able to find […]


Goddammit, Werner

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This post is about a 20km walk from Brădeni to Sighișoara. I learn that there are bears in the region, and I make a plan for Werner. The night had been weird. We had camped in a patch of forest. It was close to the road and close to a place where a bunch of […]


the fellowship Of The Woods

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This post is about a 22km walk from Agnita to Brădeni. My plan to get rid of Werner has failed, but some kids in a village want to have him. Aaaaaand of course he was still there. He looked at me, wagging his tail as if to say: “I knew you’d be back, dude!” Goddammit, […]


a plan to get rid of him

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This post is about a 22km walk from Ilimbav to Agnita. Werner is still with me, and I come up with a plan to get rid of him. When I woke up, Werner was still there. He had slept next to me under the tree, right where I had pitched my tent. I sighed. Didn’t […]


Werner Herzog

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This post is about a 28km walk from Daia to Ilimbav. I look at the fortified church of Hosman and meet Werner the dog. It had stopped raining. I left the silence of the guesthouse and walked out onto a country road. There were no people and no cars. Then the road got busier and […]


pornographic books for depraved people

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This post is about a stay at the Flanderhof Manor in Daia. I make myself a meal and read a slightly erotic book. In the morning I heard raindrops fall against the window of my room. I was alone in the tower. There were no other guests in the Flanderhof Manor. I decided to stay […]


the guesthouse of all guesthouses

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This post is about a 12km walk from Sibiu to Daia. I get a bit lost on a shortcut, then I get a room in the guesthouse of all guesthouses. The way out of Sibiu was a bicycle lane that was new, shiny, and green. I was completely alone on it, and there wasn’t much […]


kora

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This post is about getting a rabies shot in Sibiu. It’s also about a concert in the Great Synagogue of Sibiu. Today was the date of my fourth scheduled rabies shot. I figured I’d just go to the Municipal Emergency Hospital of Sibiu. It was big. There was a chapel on its premises and a […]


the eyes of Sibiu

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This post is about a 2km walk within Sibiu. I change guesthouses and notice the famous “Eyes of Sibiu” on the way. The hostel was fully booked today. So I had to move. I decided to leave the area of sophistication and go to the edge of town to settle down there. It was a […]


Daniil Kharms never did this

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This post is about the Bridge Of Lies in Sibiu. And about getting drunk in a cool bar whose name I forget. And about Daniil Kharms. Being sophisticated was cool but exhausting. In my case it involved considerate amounts of alcohol. And so I woke up late, had some breakfast, and did my laundry. Then […]


sophisticated

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This post is about a visit to the Sibiu International Theater Festival. I walk around in the old town and see a few installations. I was staying in a hostel in the center of Sibiu. It was located next to one bar and on top of another. There were cool and beautiful people everywhere; people […]


blessed?

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This post is about a 23km walk from the Orlat Monastery to Sibiu. The Caboose gets into her second traffic accident. In the morning I went to the chapel and lit a few candles. And then I did something I rarely ever do: I got myself some souvenirs. I didn’t have a fridge magnet of […]


the good sisters

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This post is about a 21km walk from Rod to the Orlat Monastery. I get lost in a forest and end up pitching my tent in a nun convent. I had slept well in the meadow. When I woke up it took a while to dry my things in the morning sun, and since there […]


the last uphill

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This post is about a 24km walk from Șugag to Rod. I tackle the last incline of the Carpathian mountains in the rain. The weather forecast said it was going to rain. The sky said it was going to rain. I felt tired to my bones, and I didn’t want to be out there, walking. […]


a T-Rex called Climate Change

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This post is about getting a rabies shot in Alba Julia. I take long taxi rides and watch Jurassic World Dominion, which doesn’t impress me. I had spent the evening and part of the night before drinking with another patron of the guesthouse. Nobody needed to worry about rabies, he had told me. Why was […]


…and your enemies closer

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This post is about an 18km walk from Tau Bistra to Șugag. I start off with a deep fried pancake, and I make some friends on the way. The first thing I saw was another dam. It was called Tau Bistra, and it looked pretty damn big. langos The second thing I saw was a […]