Monthly Archives: June 2023
Munich
This post is about a 20km walk from Waldtrudering to Munich. I have lunch in my favorite restaurant, get drenched and drunk. You live in an oasis, I told Anja as we were having breakfast. And it was true. I had crossed a few other oases before, big ones like Zhangye in Gansu and tiny […]
the oasis
This post is about a 24km walk from Taglaching to Waldtrudering. I walk along a busy road for most of the day, then I reach an oasis. The evening had come with a series of questions and answers. First I ran into Andi, a young guy who was cleaning his car in the garage of […]
alpine
This post is about a 24km walk from Viehhausen to Taglaching. I walk through forests and alpine landscapes, and I have a pistachio croissant. Everything was wet but my stuff wasn’t. The evening before I had asked at a random farm if I could pitch my tent on their property. “Sure”, they had said, and […]
water castle
This post is about a 21km walk from the Inn riverside to Viehhausen. I walk through Wasserburg am Inn and feel a weird sense of pressure. I woke up a few times during the night because it rained. Each time it was only a light drizzle, and I was safe in my bivouac sack. But […]
little screams
This post is about a 14km walk from Kemating to the Inn riverside. I wake up in a field, visit an abbey, and sleep next to the river. The night before, as I was looking for a place to sleep, I ran into Sepp I. He was an outdoor enthusiast about to go into retirement, […]
cakes and camps
This post is about a 22km walk from Mühldorf to Kemating. I have cake with Louise, and then I visit a bunker in a forest. The town was very quiet in the morning. Maybe it was because today was a Sunday. Or maybe everyone was just sleeping off their hangover from the night before. stuck […]
thank the Black Madonna
This post is about an 18km walk from Altötting to Mühldorf. My friend Louise and I see a Black Madonna and go to a street festival. It had rained a bit during the night, so everything was wet when I got up. So I sat in Alois’ yard for a few hours, doing my exercises, […]
swathe
This post is about a 17km walk from Burghausen to Altötting. I start walking in light rain and make my way through a forest to Alois’ farm. I ended up staying three days in Burghausen. They were hot and lazy days. Every morning the weather report would predict thunderstorms, and every day all day the […]
the longest castle
This post is about a visit to the longest castle in the world. It’s in Burghausen, and it is long alright. I had originally been planning to cross the border to Germany at Braunau. When I checked the map, however, and read that the longest castle in the world was here in Burghausen, a mere day’s […]
dicks out for Bavaria
This post is about a 25km walk from Braunau am Inn to Burghausen. I enter Germany, but there is only a penis and a sign saying Bavaria. I spent a quiet day in Braunau. Then, on the second morning, I gathered my stuff and started walking. how to leave Braunau First there was the question […]
Adolf Hitler’s birthplace
This post is about a 24km walk from Katzenberg to Braunau am Inn. I walk past the house where Adolf Hitler was born. I got up shortly after five in the morning, before the first fisherman appeared. Then I sat there for a while, looking at the river. Inn not Danube I think I forgot […]
do not pass go
This post is about a 23km walk from Suben to Katzenberg. I walk into a prison yard and end up in a bivouac next to the river. The lawn of the restaurant where I had pitched my tent had presented me with one problem: a robotic lawn mower. I thought about it for a while, […]
house of excellent repute
This post is about a 27km walk from Achleiten to Suben. I see a sad chapel, and I get food and a shower in an unexpected place. The night before I had asked at a farm if I could pitch my tent on their premises, and a group of enthusiastic young people had said yes. […]
see Germany and go
This post is about a 25km walk from Engelhartszell to Achleiten. I see German territory for the first time, but I decide to stay in Austria. One time, as I was passing by the Caritas facility on the premises of the abbey, one of the patients looked at me with wide eyes and exclaimed: “My […]
the last guest
This post is about a day in Engelszell Abbey. I drink beer with Pater Christian and learn that the abbey is about to be shut down. “Stay as long as you like,” Pater Christian had told me, “hospitality is the way of the Trappists.” a quiet day So I stayed for a whole day in […]
Victoria, you pile of bones
This post is about a 19km walk from Schlögen to Engelhartszell. I see a Roman excavation and end up staying in Engelszell Abbey. I woke up at five in the morning, and when I looked down at the river I couldn’t see it. There was a thick layer of clouds in the valley below, as […]
Nibelung
This post is about an 18km walk from Mühl to Schlögen. I toil my way up the hills until I am at the viewpoint Schlögener Schlinge. Everyone had been telling me that I was about to enter the part of the Danube that was the prettiest. And it seemed as though they weren’t wrong. Germanic […]
just wait
This post is about an 18km walk from Feldkirchen to Mühl. My friend Mario from Linz accompanies me as I walk from campground to campground. I woke up feeling out of place. Again, I had spent the night at a campground, but this time it was a large place that seemed to cater mostly to […]
drunken investigations into water
This post is about a 10km walk from Fall to Feldkirchen. I look around in Goldwörth, a village that was flooded by the Danube in 2013. It was raining in the morning, which felt nice because I woke up dry and comfortable under the overhanging roof of a building on the campground. I looked at […]
they never saw the beautiful arches
This post is about an 8km walk from Alkoven to Fall. I visit the Hartheim Killing Center, then I get into a thunderstorm. I had slept very well in the yoga studio. It was a public holiday, so after a coffee I asked Anita and her family if they wanted to go visit the castle […]