Monthly Archives: June 2018

that time when METAL (almost) descended upon Tehran

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Being in Tehran felt a bit less intimidating today, so I ventured out on my own. There was a massive inner-city highway that I had to cross on my way to the nearest subway station: I was glad I had not taken the Caboose to Tehran. The metro seemed fairly ordinary: IF one was to […]


wood for sheep

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I arrived in Tehran around noon: This city had always been a bit intimidating to me – 15 million people trapped in a concrete jungle, more traffic deaths than most other capital cities in the world, the political center of Iran. But this time I was going to spend two or three days here and […]


B.Y.O.B.

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Being in Yerevan felt nice, but the road was calling me. Come back, come back! it whispered, the Caboose is waiting! So this morning I went to the long-distance bus terminal and waited there: The bus turned out to be just like the others before it: lots of leg room, half empty. My heart bled […]


policy

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Hungover as I was, I ended up walking to the city center and to a place called Café Champagne, which was incidentally also where I had had my first beer in Armenia a few days earlier. There could be no thought of ordering beer this time, though. Instead I got soup and water. It seems […]


hazy cascades

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Woke up and worked my way through the leftovers from the day before. This meant more sushi, which meant more wasabi, which meant a thorough cleansing of the head, which meant space for happy thoughts: I fucking love sushi. Then I walked around in Yerevan for a while: Took a time-lapse at Republic Square, a […]


come for the visa, stay for the…

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I went to the Iranian Embassy today. Their website said they were open in the morning, while people on travel forums said they accepted visa applications only in the afternoon. I wanted to be safe, so I went there in the morning. They told me to come back in the afternoon, so I walked around […]


Mafia Is A Lifestyle

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The night before had ended up as an impromptu vodka-party with a bunch of Iranian tourists. When I woke up this morning, I was hardly able to move. And since it was the weekend and there was no way to apply for my visa anyway, I decided to stay in. I went out in the […]


the hair of a woman

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After a night of twisting and turning in my seat, interspersed with moments of sleep here and there, I woke up when the bus suddenly stopped and vomited us into the Armenian landscape. It was beautiful, and it was serene: There were flowers and boxes full of bees, and it smelled like the flowers, and […]


watching it rush by

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I don’t like bus rides. And the longer they last, the worse I feel about them. So I wasn’t particularly happy when I went to a long-distance bus station this morning and tried to find my bus to Yerevan in Armenia: But I ended up finding it, and it ended up offering just as much […]


mountain road to Azadi Square

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My Iranian visa was due to run out in a few days. Two months earlier, I had been able to extend it, but there were not more possibilities for an extension now. So today I got onto a bus to Tehran. It was a so-called “VIP-bus”, and it was pretty nice. At least the leg […]


allowed to ride

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Again, the highway: One thing that is remarkable about the coastal areas here is that women are apparently allowed to ride bicycles by themselves: From what I understand this is forbidden in most other parts of the country, where women must always have a male companion present when they’re riding a bike. Why, though? Either […]


not living up to it

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Walking along the highway, and never being able to leave it, and having the earplugs block everything out and making the world sound as if I was underwater, had left me with a strange sense of detachment. It felt as though I was driving a car through this part of Iran, only very very slow. […]


sad plush toys

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Stayed in another motel. It had a very quiet, empty, almost post-Soviet atmosphere to it: I liked it. There was a photo at the reception desk that showed a group of French people: Were they famous? I didn’t know. What followed was another day on the highway. Again there were people selling clothes: And again […]


dead people

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Leaving Fereydunkenar meant trading the beach for the road. It meant four days of fast walking, most of it done exclusively on a highway. But one thing it also meant was a chance to take my two new stools out for a walk: And they turned out to be awesome. I tried to avoid the […]


earplugs

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My last day in Fereydunkenar. I had finished my work and sent everything to the publishers. I used a hotspot I had set up on my cellphone to do this, because local Wifi connections were almost always terrible in Iran. The LTE coverage wasn’t so bad though. When I was done, I went into the […]


one goal to unite them

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It seems as though many countries on the planet are dealing with the issue of increasing economic inequality: a few people are amassing ever more wealth, while the vast majority feels left behind. Iran is no exception, and you can see it very clearly in the streets. Some Iranians are driving big, fat, imported German […]


The Pinkest Way

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So I would basically just sit there, drink tea, and type stuff into the computer. One of the numerous things I wanted to take care of was a problem that had arisen over on my YouTube channel. Long story short: I had ended up sending a box of cookies to YouTube because I wanted them […]


dangerous waves

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I was still sad about what had happened to the swing on the beach. But when I went there today, I found out that it had merely been moved to a better place (along with the slide): There were efforts to move the bench as well, however, it had turned out to be a bit […]


work-life balance

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I still had a lot of stuff to do. I needed to come up with a bunch of captions for my photo book: But. But. But there was also the beach. And there was the sea. There was the sound and the smell of water. I went in and took a selfie with the waves: […]


who knocked over the goddamned swing?

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There was a little playground on the beach. Or rather: it was just a swing and a slide. I didn’t care about the slide, because I was too big for it. But I liked the swing. Generally I enjoy sitting on swings, and I like using their frames to stretch my back. Strangely enough, someone […]