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Mustafa’s persimmon

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This post is about a walk from Bartin to Mugada. I end up finding a place of light in almost total darkness. In the morning I had another long conversation with the lady who owned the hotel. There was tea and gossip from both Germany and Turkey, and I couldn’t stop listening. When I left […]


did you push something heavy?

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This post is about getting physical therapy in Bartin. I also went to the post office and tried to mail something to Germany. I woke up in a hotel remembering the headache of the night before. Bartin was the biggest city I had been to since Samsun, and it was full of places to stay. […]


grasping at straws

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This post is about a walk from Amasra to Bartin. I saw an awesome Roman monument, and I asked two Turkish TV stars for help. I took the first ascent out of Amasra in one go, and I was surprised by the strength in my legs. Apparently the three days of rest had served them […]


good call

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This post is about the history museum of Amasra. And about its prayer call, which I liked a lot more than in many other places. Amasra didn’t just have one of the most enchanting locations on this side of the Black Sea. It also had thousands of years of history. So today I went to […]


the dust and the smoke

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This post is about the town of Amasra. It sits on the Turkish Black Sea coast, and I found it a stunning place to visit. I had managed to order my medication the day before, but the people at the pharmacy had told me that I could only pick it up on Monday. This was […]


we want… a shrubbery!

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This post is about a walk from Cakraz to Amasra. I’m a bit worried about my back at first, but it turns out to be fine. I was worried before I started walking in the morning. Half of the way from Cakraz to Amasra seemed to be one long uphill. And it was steep. How […]


harcar harcar bitmez

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This post is about a rest day in Cakraz. It’s also about some pharmacy troubles and about my newfound love for the supermarket A101. The Kantian stayed for breakfast. Then he left because he had responsibilities. It wasn’t easy being a Kantian, especially not in 2021. I wore the Kantian’s jacket when we said goodbye. […]


stop haunting me!

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This post is about a 29km walk from Kurucasile to Cakraz. The Kantian has the fun experience of walking through a tunnel for the first time. When we left the ögretmenevi, we were in a good mood. It had rained heavily over night, but we had been in a room with a little window overlooking […]


the 14th day

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This post is about a walk from Gideros to Kurucasile. It was also my own gift to myself for my 40th birthday. I had wanted nothing but this for my birthday: walking. I wanted to feel the road under my shoes, the wind in my hair, the sun in my face. Like on that First […]


Disco Inferno

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This post is about a walk from Cide to Gideros. My old friend the Kantian joins me, and we decide to party into my birthday. Guess who came to walk with me for a few days? That’s right:the Kantian! And since it was going to be my birthday the day after, we decided to settle […]


Trabzonspor

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This is a post about a day in the fishing town of Cide and about the football team Trabzonspor and why you should like them. It took me a long time to get out of bed in the morning, I was just too tired. But I got up eventually, had breakfast and sat around for […]


A Story Of Regret: Part II

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This post is about a walk from a shelter near Camalti to Cide. It’s the second and closing part of this story of regret. The shelter turned out to be perfect. It was a little house with windows and a door, and next to it there was a water faucet, a toilet, and a separate […]


A Story Of Regret: Part I

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This post is about a 31km walk from an abandoned house near Kerempe Feneri to a shelter near Camalti. It’s part one of a story of regret. There are two parts to this story. If you read them and you end up feeling disappointed in me, then you are not alone. I feel the same […]


around the bend

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This post is about a 23km walk from Doganyurt to an abandoned house near Kerempe Feneri. There’s a lighthouse and an emotional moment. I bought some bread and some bananas. Then, just as I was leaving, one of the old men of Doganyurt appeared. He had previously told me about the time when he used […]


between soup and tea

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This is a post about some idle time spent between a restaurant and a tea house in Doganyurt. I am a creature of habit. I ended up spending three days in Doganyurt. And I went to the same restaurant every day. It probably had a name, I don’t know. What I do know is that […]


stress yok!

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This post is about the small town of Doganyurt, and why I think it’s one of the best places to relax on the Turkish Black Sea coast. Before I arrived here, I didn’t care much for that place on the map called Doganyurt (or actually: Doğanyurt). I knew that yurt meant something like “land” from […]


the yellowing

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This post is about a 12km walk from Kayran to Doganyurt. It was the time when I noticed the leaves slowly getting yellow. Remember how I was cold when I was spending the night in my summer sleeping bag and Blankie in the village school a few days earlier? Well, this time I woke up […]


gut feelings

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This post is about a 25km walk from Inebolu to Kayran. My plan was to stay in a coastal village on the way, but instead I continued walking. I took a stroll through Inebolu in the morning. Officially I was just on a quest to buy some bananas, but what I really wanted was to […]


tiki torches

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This post is about a 26km walk from Abana to Inebolu. I reenacted a movie scene on the way, and in the end there were torches. It had rained heavily during the night. But when I left Abana in the morning, a bit of water here and there and a sense of freshness in the […]


mustang

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This is a post about a walk around Abana. I saw an abandoned hammam, a wooden mosque, and the main mosque at dusk. Before starting this leg of the walk I had promised everyone – including myself – that I would go easy on my body. No long distances, no complete exhaustion. I had to […]