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ye olde Caravanserai

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There were expensive hotels, and there were cheap ones. After a bit of searching I had found an affordable room in an historical building, the old Caravanserai of Sheki: The rooms were a bit run down, but they were spacious, and when it turned out that the shower in my room didn’t work, I got […]


full of piti

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I woke up to the most gentle of morning lights: Fazil was busy doing his accounting: And two gentlemen were busy playing backgammon: Want some piti? Fazil asked me, and he showed me the food he was preparing: Piti is a dish of mutton and vegetables slow-cooked in a little crock. Of course I wanted […]


take my picture!

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I woke up in a small room with another piece of classic hotel art on the wall: Someone gave me hot water for my tea, then I left. I was going to reach the historical town of Sheki today, finally. I had been looking forward to it for quite some time. But first there was […]


stress

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I woke up in a wet world. The only thing that wasn’t moist was the inside of my tent. I packed up and started walking: There was a myst of morning due that hung in the air… …covering everything in a thin layer of water: It took a while for the sun to cut through […]


wet lands of the forgotten people

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When I left the museum/hotel, it seemed as though the whole place was asleep. The season was over, I was told, there were no tourists and almost no visitors. And then something very good happened. If you look at the map, you will see a river that runs from the north to the south, a […]


road to ruins

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It was still raining when I left Gebele. Walking around in the drizzle didn’t feel like a big deal, but I didn’t want to get surprised by heavy rains again. Maybe I was making a mistake? But it turned out that even the drizzle stopped after a while, and the road was quiet and friendly: […]


seen by me

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With all my wet stuff hanging everywhere, my room had the feel of a limestone cave. This was probably part of the reason why I felt the need to get out. Also, people had been telling me how great Gebele was, real touristic gem etc. So I went outside: It was still raining, though not […]


wettos

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When I woke up, I was in my tent in the forest: I peaked out and noticed that Mah Fren was there, waiting for me to come out and play: So play we did: Then I started walking, and the road, albeit going up-up-up, was good, and I felt optimistic: There wasn’t much in terms […]


castilification

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When I left Ismailli in the morning, the sky was saying something along the lines of: “hey dude, check me out, I’m as optimistic as I am blue!” One genuinely weird thing about the whole area was the abundance of castle-like structures. They were everywhere. Ismailli was doing its part for the castilification of Azerbaijan […]


hanging

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I liked being in the guesthouse. So much in fact that I decided to stay yet another day. Of course this was also due to the fact that my whole body hurt after the mountain pass of Shamakhi from two days earlier. So I stayed, and I picked up my laundry that had been hanging […]


take me somewhere nice

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I was staying in a guesthouse in a quiet neighborhood. The guesthouse had something that I liked very much: Pink couches. In fact, the whole interior was very nice: It had been a Russian mansion at some point (I suspected it to be from the 19th century, when Russia had come to colonize these lands). […]


hello autumn

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Ilgar, the owner of Kafe Piknik, had given me a little shack to sleep in: It had been a strange night. It started out too cold (so that I put on a bunch of clothes and used my sleeping bag together with blankie) and ended up too warm (so that I woke up drenched in […]


easy mode or hard mode?

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The weather was mild, and Shamakhi was green: And as long as the road was flat, walking almost felt easy: But I was worried. Today was the day that I would have to decide: take the easy way south out of the mountains and into the flat land towards the city of Ganja (and then […]


the logo

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I had been planning to leave today, but I ended up staying. There was more food to be had: There was more time to be spent by the window, looking outside: Also, there was something I wanted to take care of. I wanted to develop a brand identity for The Longest Way, something that people […]


times of grapes

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There was a nice hotel in Shamakhi, and I had a room in it. When I looked out the window I saw rain, and since I was both tired and a bit sickly, it felt very good to be able to stay inside and rest. The seasons were changing. I had thoroughly enjoyed the time […]


languages

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“Chris, don’t leave today,” Murat, who spoke English pretty well, gave me a pitiful look as I was loading up the Caboose. He pointed up to the sky: “There will be rain!” “Yes, maybe there will be rain,” I answered. “Or maybe there won’t.” This was well in line with my general attitude of knowing […]


without humans

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The hotel was nice, and it seemed to be completely empty. This was a bit weird because the night before I had enjoyed a fantastic dinner with Murat and his friends who worked there: But in the morning, when I went to the kitchen to get some hot water for my tea, all I could […]


all i need

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When I woke up I felt tired and sore: I looked outside and saw a few tractors that were being repaired, and since it was just a few minutes after seven, I wondered if this was by any chance a 24/7 repair shop: Then my mind became occupied with other things – there was a […]


a quick fox didn’t jump

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I woke up early in the morning, brushed my teeth, got some hot water for my tea, and then I said goodbye to the boss and stepped out of the gate: The world seemed to be asleep, and I did not see many people outside: Then the buildings on either side of the road became […]


the process of leaving

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Today was the day that I finally left Baku. After more than two weeks spent hanging out and exploring, after a lot of good food, after a trip to Kazakhstan and intense feelings of loneliness, I was now ready to leave. It felt right. So I walked out of the hotel gates, and I turned […]