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four star walk

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I woke up in the bliss of what had turned out to be a four star hotel: When I had shown up the night before, coming in from the darkness, out of my mind from exhaustion, the hotel staff had smiled and given me a special price. The hotel seemed much too nice for a […]


I hate tunnels

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I said goodbye to the Red Crescent dudes: Then I was back on the road, which had started to wind around the mountains: Sometimes, in the valleys, I saw fields of rape (or: rapeseed), and somehow there were always people in them who were taking selfies: My back felt better than the day before, and […]


heavy clouds and a red crescent

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I was told that a Spanish traveler had arrived in my hotel. A Spanish woman? I asked. The answer was no, no, no, a shake of the head. The dude’s name was Raul, and his motorcycle was a bit intimidating, a machine designed to grind the concrete and make dust fly: Reza from the hotel […]


the 360 degree thingy

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I had tricked everyone. And myself. Remember the sick king in Lord Of The Rings, I think his name was Theoden, the one who had his wicked adviser whisper things in his ear all the time? I was both of them, the king and his adviser. The snow will make walking a bad idea, I […]


snow, man

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Just a few days earlier, it had been so warm and the sunshine so strong that I had been wearing only a shirt and ended up getting a little sunburn on my arms. Well, today, when I looked out the window, everything was white: It was mid-April, and Shirvan was covered in snow, and the […]


wear the spare

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When I woke up I was still pretty tired. I went down to the breakfast hall and had two hard-boiled eggs, some cheese and some bread. And a lot of tea. There were no other guests around, but there were party straws: Then I finally went ahead and changed the spare wheel of the Caboose: […]


the day that won

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I woke up with the morning light that fell into the room: And I found myself in a good mood. We all had breakfast, then Vahid’s family watched me load up the Caboose: Vahid took my camera and ran off to photograph his dad with his friends repairing the car: Then we posed for a […]


milk

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When I left, it was another sunny day, and walking felt easy. These two dudes came running after me until they were out of breath, then they asked for a picture: If you look at the map you can see a dotted line. I crossed it today, stepping into my second Iranian province. But nothing […]


the brothers near the shrine

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I left Quchan in the sunshine, and everything was swell. Passed a big fat truck: Passed a monument that looked like… me: Somewhere along the way this gentleman stopped his tractor and asked me to take his picture, so I did: There was laughter in the air and much singing of birds, and my forearms […]


dudes who beat the crap out of other dudes

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One more day to hang out, update the blog, and do laundry (the rope I had brought wasn’t long enough to wash all my clothes in one go). So I mostly stayed around the hotel: One time I went to a small shop and noticed a familiar face: I generally don’t like energy drinks, but […]


waterfall of words

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“Do you want to have lunch with a tour group from Australia?” my friend Mastaneh from Mashhad asked me. Of course! I said. It was always good to have lunch, and I needed a break from doing my laundry: I have come to believe that washing machines are among the best inventions of humankind. So […]


weird drinks in the land of no drinks

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I woke up, and things were good. It was my day off, the first of three to be exact. The last few walking days had taken their toll on me, and I was happy to just stay in and do some laundry. I had rented the biggest room in the hotel, mainly because it wasn’t […]


space invaders

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The night had seen rain: So I gave the Caboose her orange cover, and then we set out: It was miserable walking next to the highway with the drizzle and the cold and the trucks coming our way like Space Invaders: Remember I told you about the memorials to the fallen soldiers from the Iran-Iraq […]


the pilgrim

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When I woke up everything was swell, and the village was totally quiet. Only old folks and young children on the street. I ran into this tractor driver and asked him if there was a road to Quchan that led through the villages: He said no. So I walked in the direction of the highway, […]


into orchards

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I wanted to continue on the nice quiet country roads, so I asked the people of the eco-lodge in Radkan to help me come up with a roadmap to Quchan, and they did: It was basically going to be village hopping. The road was so quiet it was mezmerizing: One time I ran into a […]


blanky and the Safavids

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You might have already guessed it. I wasn’t ready to leave this place, yet. Instead I chose to stay another day, curled up on one of the beds outside in the courtyard: Temperatures had dropped, so I was happy I had my sleeping bag and my trusted Blanky with me. I was reading a book […]


likabaows

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I woke up with my first blister since Mashhad, and it wasn’t on my foot. It was on my finger. Also, I had a very shitty song stuck in my head. But none of this was bad, because the day was just swell. With Nowruz (the Persian New Year) behind us, the peak tourist season […]


please tell me it used to be all blue!

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A friend had told me about a village called Radkan northwest of Chenaran. It had an ancient tower and an eco-lodge where I would be able to stay. I decided to walk there, but not on the main highway. Instead, I was going to try to find a way through the countryside. I wasn’t sure […]


…looking for something

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I woke up with a Eurythmics song stuck in my head. There are definitely worse ear worms to have. Sweet Dreams. So I went about doing my laundry, humming: Are Made Of This. Then I went out and marvelled at the empty city, humming: Who Am I. Bought some bread, humming: To Disagree. Got two […]


hotel hunt

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When I woke up in the mosque, and its doors were still shut and my things were still there, and the morning light came shining in from outside, I felt relieved. I was tired as hell, though. So I slowly packed up my stuff, then I turned back and took a last look at the […]