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The Three Musketeers

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These were strange times. Usually, when the leaders of the Communist Party of China mismanaged their country, it only affected the rest of the world in a rather indirect way. Every time when, over the last several decades, thousands or even millions of Chinese people died, the world would just shrug it off. Look over […]


ten tips on how to keep a journal

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I used to call it a “diary”, until I looked it up and found out it’s not. It’s a journal. According to the internet, a diary is where you take notes of your daily activities. A journal is much more than that. You put your personal thoughts and reflections into a journal. Okay then. A […]


the snapping sound

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This is a bit awkward. I was going to return to Turkey at the end of the month and continue walking. That was the plan. And so in order to be fit, I had been taking it easy, trying to do my exercises and get rest and eat and read and work on my pictures. […]


sphere

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I have never been particularly good at waiting, even after all this time. But I try. I spend a lot of my time editing my photos. I read. I go for walks. I play with the cat. I watch tv shows and movies. I find out that Bojack Horseman gets good once you’re ready to […]


black

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Where did you come from? When were you born? Who are your folks? And what are you looking for? How the hell are you so black that you look just like a blob? And – I really want to know – why are you in my seat all the time?


the Hanover smile

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I’m home, taking care of a few things. The Caboose is waiting for me in Turkey, and sometimes I can hear her call. What can I do but softly whisper back, telling her to wait just a bit longer, just until the end of March. She says she understands. But she keeps on calling. Meanwhile, […]


until then

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I’m staying in Batumi, in an old apartment that has been turned into a hostel. The walls are almost twice as high as a person, and they are covered in wood panels. I mostly stay put on a couch, reading, having trail mix and tea, playing Mario Kart, listening to the sound of heavy rainfall […]


riding the bus is harder than walking

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Everything happens so quickly. The bus door opens and closes, the engines start humming, then a stream of familiar places rushes by outside of the window. Sometimes I think of a person whom I’ve met here or there, or of a cat or a dog. Every time we go through a tunnel I find myself […]


forty million and two dreams

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I wake up late, and when I do, I remember my dreams. There were two. The first was about me arriving at my home on my final day of walking. There was a sense of relief that I had made it, but there was also a sense of panic that I had forgotten something. The […]


there comes a lion

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I spend my day doing something I dread: I plan things. I plan Georgia, Germany, Christmas, New Year’s, storage facilities, train tickets, plane rides, doctor’s appointments, etc. etc. In the evening, when my head is about to explode, I have dinner topped off with sütlac, then I get on a minibus to Atakum. A friend […]


rewind

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My visa-free stay in Turkey is coming to an end, and so I need to get out of here for a few months. The Caboose is staying in a friend’s garage, I’m boarding a bus back south to Samsun. Looking out of the bus window feels like rewinding a video-tape and watching the story unfold […]


lovers’ names on walls of suffering

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Sinop, they say, is famous for being Turkey’s happiest city. Why are people so happy here? Maybe because Sinop is located quite beautifully on a peninsula in the Black Sea. Maybe because the climate is less rainy than in the eastern parts of the coast. Maybe because there are literally no traffic lights in all […]


enjoy

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When I step outside to breathe the morning air, Korsan, the dog, is still asleep. Or maybe he just doesn’t want to get up because two of his friends are resting on top of him. Mustafa has prepared breakfast: fried eggplant, zucchini, and potato, toasted bread, fresh tomatoes, strawberry jam, honey, cheese, boiled eggs, and […]


the commander

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Staying in Lala felt like staying with a whole village rather than a single family. Everyone knew each other, everyone was always visiting the others’ homes, and the meals were lively gatherings. Also, it was the weekend, and those who lived in the city had returned to the village to spend time with their families. […]


Lala

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When I leave Gerze, I notice a few buildings that look like they might be old. Or maybe they’ve just been reconstructed. One of them is a large, empty villa that seems like it might get razed soon. Destroyed, as my friend Hairullah from Bafra would put it with a sweeping gesture. The road rolls […]


I HAVE THE POWER

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Gerze, someone has told me, used to be a very beautiful town. That was until it burned down a few decades ago. It was subsequently rebuilt, and now almost all of it looks newish and rather uninspired. After taking a little walk down to the harbor, I concur. Gerze has an awesome geographic location, and […]


winding up

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I wake up in the mosque, and because mosques usually don’t have any heating I burrow myself deeper in the sleeping bag and close my eyes again. When I finally leave, the sun is out and the road goes winding up the hills. It’s about five kilometers to the actual village of Yenikent, but since […]


the existence of Yenikent

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Nobody in Yakakent seemed to know Yenikent. Where are you going? they would ask me, and when they heard that I was planning to go to Yenikent, they would stare into space. Yenikent, right! There was a place by that name, somewhere. Actually, Yenikent isn’t that far from Yakakent. If you go by car it’s […]


obese street dogs

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Yakakent feels like Gonio. Okay, there is a mosque here and there are a few tea houses, and it’s generally a lot more tame than in Georgia, but the kind of touristy beach-town atmosphere Yakakent has is a bit similar to that of Gonio. This is Yakakent, the relaxed beach-town. I’m here during the off-season, […]


rain and spring invisible

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Finally, a small family-owned guesthouse! I found it last night with the help of the owners of the restaurant where I was having dinner. It was on the fourth floor of an apartment building, and the owners lived two floors down from it. It was simple and clean. I wake up feeling refreshed. I really […]