Tag Archives: rest

ode to Kadiköy

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This post is about the part of Istanbul that’s called Kadiköy and how awesome I think it is. Because of liberalism, and because of cats. I used to refer to the European side of Istanbul as the “fun side”. Looking at the map made it seem that way to me, maybe because most of the […]


Hallelujah, the Hagia Sophia is a mosque!

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This post is about a visit to the Hagia Sophia. She has recently been converted into a mosque, which I think is wonderful. One cannot visit Xi’an without seeing the Terracotta Army, one cannot visit Samarkand without seeing the Registan, and one cannot visit Istanbul without seeing the Hagia Sophia. It is the law. And […]


eclecticism

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This post is about a visit to Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. I am confused by the stylistic mess and delighted by a forgery and by a church. The Caboose is safe in a garage on the European side while I am staying with the Kantian in Kadıköy. Istanbul is all around me, and I can […]


Kabus means nightmare

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This post is about being worried in Kadiköy. I am wearing a Santa hat, and I go and get a wheel and my hat repaired. Am I an optimist or a pessimist? I am not sure. On the one hand you have to be an optimist – even to the point of being naive – […]


how to get permission to walk over the Bosphorus Bridge

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This post is about how I finally get permission to walk over the Bosphorus Bridge. It involves a run to the Governor’s Office and the Police. I slept for a day, then I sat down with the Kantian to talk about my worries. The Bridge Problem. The goddamned Bridge Problem. Many people were trying to […]


pekmez & tahini

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This post is about pekmez and tahini, and how I think it’s extremely weird that we don’t have them in Germany. Over the next few days I drank a lot of tea with lemon. I also took some cold medicine that the receptionist had given me. I tried to stay in my room as much […]


bridge problems

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This post is about how I am trying to get permission to walk across the Bosphorus. It doesn’t really work. Also, I have a cold. I had felt it in the evening. Maybe even before that. There was a reason why I was so tired all the time. The sneezing, the runny nose, the sore […]


Name’s Ash, House Wares

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This post is about a day of tree felling in Kovukkavla. I am very tired and very useless, but I am there, wandering around in the forest. “Why don’t you stay another day?” my hosts had offered the night before. And now, as we sat down for breakfast, the question came up again. I was […]


to bowl or not to bowl

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This post is about how I went bowling by myself in Zonguldak. I had some vodka and an expresso, listened to 90s metal, and bowled very badly. My legs hurt, and the weather forecast said it was going to be rainy for two days. So I decided to take it easy and rest up in […]


the black diamond

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This post is about coal mining in Zonguldak. It was there, under the city. But up near the sea it didn’t seem to exist at all. I got up and had breakfast. It was the typical Turkish hotel/ögretmenevi breakfast: an egg and some bread, cheese, cucumber, tomato, olives, strawberry jam, chocolate spread. Along with water […]


did you push something heavy?

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This post is about getting physical therapy in Bartin. I also went to the post office and tried to mail something to Germany. I woke up in a hotel remembering the headache of the night before. Bartin was the biggest city I had been to since Samsun, and it was full of places to stay. […]


good call

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This post is about the history museum of Amasra. And about its prayer call, which I liked a lot more than in many other places. Amasra didn’t just have one of the most enchanting locations on this side of the Black Sea. It also had thousands of years of history. So today I went to […]


the dust and the smoke

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This post is about the town of Amasra. It sits on the Turkish Black Sea coast, and I found it a stunning place to visit. I had managed to order my medication the day before, but the people at the pharmacy had told me that I could only pick it up on Monday. This was […]


harcar harcar bitmez

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This post is about a rest day in Cakraz. It’s also about some pharmacy troubles and about my newfound love for the supermarket A101. The Kantian stayed for breakfast. Then he left because he had responsibilities. It wasn’t easy being a Kantian, especially not in 2021. I wore the Kantian’s jacket when we said goodbye. […]


Trabzonspor

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This is a post about a day in the fishing town of Cide and about the football team Trabzonspor and why you should like them. It took me a long time to get out of bed in the morning, I was just too tired. But I got up eventually, had breakfast and sat around for […]


between soup and tea

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This is a post about some idle time spent between a restaurant and a tea house in Doganyurt. I am a creature of habit. I ended up spending three days in Doganyurt. And I went to the same restaurant every day. It probably had a name, I don’t know. What I do know is that […]


stress yok!

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This post is about the small town of Doganyurt, and why I think it’s one of the best places to relax on the Turkish Black Sea coast. Before I arrived here, I didn’t care much for that place on the map called Doganyurt (or actually: Doğanyurt). I knew that yurt meant something like “land” from […]


mustang

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This is a post about a walk around Abana. I saw an abandoned hammam, a wooden mosque, and the main mosque at dusk. Before starting this leg of the walk I had promised everyone – including myself – that I would go easy on my body. No long distances, no complete exhaustion. I had to […]


club of kings

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This is a post about how I went fashion shopping in Abana. I ended up getting a wool hat that said KING and a bandana. I woke up clean. My body and my clothes: clean. My hair and my beard: also clean. I was in a room with a white bed. The receptionist had said […]


give me your lokma

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This is a post about having some lokma in Ayancik. Oh, and I decided to sort through my stuff and mail some of it to Istanbul. There was a time in my life when I believed I was smart. That time is long gone. But there is something good about this. For with the realization […]