I woke up in the bliss of what had turned out to be a four star hotel: When I had shown up the night before, coming in from the darkness, out of my mind from exhaustion, the hotel staff had smiled and given me a special price. The hotel seemed much too nice for a […]
I said goodbye to the Red Crescent dudes: Then I was back on the road, which had started to wind around the mountains: Sometimes, in the valleys, I saw fields of rape (or: rapeseed), and somehow there were always people in them who were taking selfies: My back felt better than the day before, and […]
I was told that a Spanish traveler had arrived in my hotel. A Spanish woman? I asked. The answer was no, no, no, a shake of the head. The dude’s name was Raul, and his motorcycle was a bit intimidating, a machine designed to grind the concrete and make dust fly: Reza from the hotel […]
I had tricked everyone. And myself. Remember the sick king in Lord Of The Rings, I think his name was Theoden, the one who had his wicked adviser whisper things in his ear all the time? I was both of them, the king and his adviser. The snow will make walking a bad idea, I […]
Just a few days earlier, it had been so warm and the sunshine so strong that I had been wearing only a shirt and ended up getting a little sunburn on my arms. Well, today, when I looked out the window, everything was white: It was mid-April, and Shirvan was covered in snow, and the […]
When I woke up I was still pretty tired. I went down to the breakfast hall and had two hard-boiled eggs, some cheese and some bread. And a lot of tea. There were no other guests around, but there were party straws: Then I finally went ahead and changed the spare wheel of the Caboose: […]
I woke up with the morning light that fell into the room: And I found myself in a good mood. We all had breakfast, then Vahid’s family watched me load up the Caboose: Vahid took my camera and ran off to photograph his dad with his friends repairing the car: Then we posed for a […]
When I left, it was another sunny day, and walking felt easy. These two dudes came running after me until they were out of breath, then they asked for a picture: If you look at the map you can see a dotted line. I crossed it today, stepping into my second Iranian province. But nothing […]
I left Quchan in the sunshine, and everything was swell. Passed a big fat truck: Passed a monument that looked like… me: Somewhere along the way this gentleman stopped his tractor and asked me to take his picture, so I did: There was laughter in the air and much singing of birds, and my forearms […]