Tag Archives: uzbekistan

90 minutes

Posted on

There were no marshrutkas in Navoyi. So I hopped on a shared ride and went back to Samarkand: It had taken me several days to walk to Navoiy from there, but it was only a 90-minute car ride. How easy. When I got there, I went straight to the post office: I had to show […]


avoid the sun

Posted on

When I left Ziadin in the morning, I saw a lot of people on the road: Most were waiting for rides: There were young women with parasols: And old ladies in colorful outfits: And there were European campers, a lot of them. Sometimes it was just motor home after motor home. Some of the drivers […]


weld grind burn

Posted on

So I went back to the road, tripod or not. It took a while to get back to Mirbazar, after all it was more than 100km from Samarkand. I took a cab, and on the way there I slept. When I looked out the window once, I saw rain outside. And then I was in […]


what weekdays mean

Posted on

Sometimes, when I am on the road, I lose track of which day of the week it is. Dates are somewhat important to me, mostly because of my visa issues, but weekdays just don’t seem to have a lot of meaning. Today I decided to stay in Samarkand, because I wanted to pick something up […]


night train

Posted on

Walked into this charming gentleman at the hostel where I was staying: We introduced ourselves and then talked for quite a long time, so long in fact that when I realized that I had forgotten his name it seemed somehow impolite to ask. He was from Germany, he traveled solo, and his beard was much […]


refusal to steam

Posted on

The next country I wanted to walk through was Turkmenistan. I didn’t know much about it, except that there were fast horses and beautiful carpets. And there was another thing that I knew: with the Caspian Sea to the West of Turkmenistan and Afghanistan to its East, there was no way around it. Alas, I […]


numismatics

Posted on

Back to Tashkent. I regretted buying plane tickets. There is a train from Tashkent to Almaty and back, a train which I should have taken. Better for the environment. Better for me. More stuff to see out of the window. Sometimes I am just baffled by my own ignorance. Anyway, here I was, with my […]


tragic satsivi

Posted on

I left Tashkent on a sunny afternoon: …and landed in Almaty on a cloudy evening: (The above picture is the stadium that I had seen when it was still under construction more than a half year ago.) When I went out to get something to eat, it felt as if Almaty had not changed at […]


rail transport

Posted on

My Uzbek visa was about to run out in two days. So the night before I had left the Caboose with Firuza in Mirbazar and taken a cab back to Samarkand. And now I was to return to Tashkent by train and then Almaty by plane to get a new visa there. Today was about […]


our photos

Posted on

When I got back to the restaurant where the Caboose had spent the night, the first thing we all did was take photos together: Lots and lots of photos: And because everyone felt sorry that I hadn’t been able to spend the night there, I got treated to a very nice breakfast of chicken tabaka: […]


little dudes and eggs and soap

Posted on

Juma having no hotel and Uzbekistan having a rule that foreigners had to stay in hotels in order to register could mean only one thing: I had parked the Caboose overnight, hopped in a car back to Samarkand, slept there and then taken a taxi back to Juma in the morning. It was all very […]


green again

Posted on

Loaded up the Caboose in the morning, and she was ready to go: I had added some reflective tape for extra visibility in the dark: And then we were on our way. Finally. After more than three months! Samarkand was looking her finest: We walked past traffic: And more traffic: One time there was an […]


wrap it up

Posted on

Feeling that my work was done, I sat down in the warm morning sun and read some Eco: All was well in Samarkand. But when I went to check on the Caboose, I discovered something terrible: The paint was no good. Fuck, I thought. Fuggidifuckfuckfuck. I went and bought a scraper: Samarkand was looking extra […]


second coat

Posted on

The paint had basically dried overnight, so I went and took the Caboose home to the place where I was staying, upon which I decided that she needed an additional coat of paint. It was a beautiful day out: I walked around under the blue sky and bought some more of the paint we had […]


flat matt

Posted on

When morning dawned, it was time to look the truth in the eye: I had failed. The Caboose was still very rusty. I was told to get diesel oil to get rid of the rust, so I ventured outside with a glass jar, trying to find diesel oil: In the end a taxi driver knew […]


red hair in a black box

Posted on

So the Caboose was still healthy: But she was dirty: And she was rusty: So I figured I had to clean her: I’d gotten two sponges and a bottle of fanta: When I was done I didn’t exactly feel happy with the results. But I decided to go visit Tamerlan’s grave anyway, for I had […]


…and my chair

Posted on

I arrived in Samarkand early in the morning, and the first thing I did was check on the Caboose: Then I went to sleep in a calm and dark room of the hostel where I was staying: And then, in the late afternoon, I took a little walk around town. Samarkand was so much prettier […]


I want to sit next to me

Posted on

I ended up packing my stuff in the morning. When I got to the airport, the lady at the counter told me that I didn’t have a flight from Hannover via Moscow to Samarkand. I had a flight from Hannover to Moscow and another flight from Moscow to Samarkand. Can’t tell the difference? Well, there […]


running into the runner

Posted on

Our flight was going to depart at four in the morning. So we went and had one last dinner at a Georgian restaurant around the block: Awesome it was, a poem of meat… …of bread and of cheese… …and of garlic: It was only after we were done with all of this that we realized […]


memento

Posted on

Remember how we tried to see one of the world’s oldest surviving copies of the Qur’an, but we failed? That was more than two weeks ago. Today we came back, and we triumphed! First we bought tickets, then we inserted some money into this strange looking machine: I thought it was a dispenser for chewing […]