Tag Archives: uzbekistan

meeting with me

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Went to Tashkent railway station today: In Uzbekistan, you are told to arrive forty minutes before your train departs. I usually try to be there at least an hour early. So I hung out in the waiting hall until the train arrived: I felt excited – how would our train pass the border? Would we […]


run from the hanger

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Another day in Tashkent, waiting for my train. I helped a lady from New Zealand get certificates for a few suzanis she had purchased. I was pretty good at that by now. Then we sat down and talked. Why had we decided to travel? I said I just liked to experience things. She said her […]


Party Down is boss

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Stayed in. Sorted some pictures. I had taken more than 18.000 photos in just four weeks (mainly because of the many time-lapse shots). And while I was sorting through my endless archives I watched some Party Down, which is one of the best things to have ever lived on TV: Seriously, this thing getting cancelled […]


dinner alone

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Just like that, she was gone. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . And I had dinner: Alone.


this is what you can’t wear

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With the rejection of my third attempt at getting a Turkmen visa (and her attempt at obtaining a transit visa rejected as well), we started making plans for the weeks ahead. She was going to leave via airplane, and I was going to take a train out of Tashkent. So we went to the train […]


how to get certified

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Remember how we were told to get certificates for the hand-made suzanis we had bought a few days ago? Well, today we went and had them examined and certified, and because the road there wasn’t very easy I will try to share with you what I know: If you have bought hand-made articles like suzanis, […]


the best lagman in Tashkent

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If you want lagman, the hearty Central Asian noodle dish, you need to find an Uyghur chef. Everyone knows that they are the best when it comes to noodle-making. My personal favorite lagman-place in Tashkent is this one: Binket near Chorsu Bazaar. I marked it for you on the map. If you ask a taxi […]


mail fail

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We were about to go back to Tashkent today. But first we had to think of a way to get rid of the suzani we had bought: They were too heavy to lug around, especially if I was going to do any serious walking in the months to come. So we went to the main […]


I like shopping

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Something happened this morning: Something that led to a supreme vantage point: It didn’t last long: But it was good while it lasted. The day was still young when we took a half-hour drive to Urgut, a village in the southeast of Samarkand. Urgut was famous for its bazaar. When we got there, it was […]


Timurland

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We went to Shahrisabz today, a small town located about an hour south of Samarkand. It is known as the birthplace of Timur (or Tamerlan), and apparently he had initially planned to turn it into the capital of his empire instead of Samarkand. Well, plans change sometimes. He did build a large palace for himself […]


the noodle prophet

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I wanted to take pictures of the sunrise, so I got up at 4:30 in the morning and walked over to the Registan. After the sun had come up, I ran into a Japanese gentleman who was in Samarkand with a tour group: He was very enthusiastic about everything. Then she came and picked me […]


drunken swag

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So we went and looked at some graves today: They were in Shah-i-Zinda, a mausoleum complex in the northern part of the city: The site was fairly large: Some of the mausoleums were richly decorated: While others looked rather simple – but only from the outside: Because from the inside, every single one… …was spectacular: […]


one thousand and one big fat penises

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There was a palace called Nurullaboy Saroyi just outside of Khiva’s gates: It was apparently well worth a visit, but alas! it was closed for renovations, as we were told by this friendly lady: We had already booked train tickets to Samarkand, so we just got some ice cream and sat down in front of […]


up the ladder to the roof

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We woke up late and had some fried fish in a restaurant outside of the city walls: There were things to see there as well… …but we ignored them and went back to the old town. To Tash Khauli, to be exact: This palace from the early 19th century had elaborately decorated wooden pillars… …and […]


equals S?

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The train ride was in fact two train rides. One to Navoiy, a place that I had previously walked through, and the other to Urgench, a city close to Khiva in the Northwest of Uzbekistan. The stopover in Navoiy was a bit strange, though, as we had to leave the train not on a platform […]


the brutal side

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When we woke up this morning, our guesthouse was filled with a group of engineers from Belarus who were working on a project in Turkmenistan: They came to Bukhara once a month in order to extend their residence permits, and they said if I got my Turkmen visa, then I would see them somewhere on […]


richer than him

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Today we did something refreshing. We went to Fayzulla Khujayev’s House: Fayzulla Khujayev doesn’t live there anymore. In fact, Fayzulla Khujayev doesn’t live anywhere, because Fayzulla Khujayev is dead. And he has been dead for a very long time. Back in the early 20th century, Fayzulla Khujayev used to be the richest man in the […]


El Gato Adolfo

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So back to Bukhara it was! Remember how I told you that I hadn’t really looked at anything while I was there almost a month ago? Well, now I was back, and I was back with her. We walked through the back alleys of old Bukhara: It was much more condensed than Samarkand, and there […]


sleep, dude

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When I woke up this morning, I didn’t feel that sick anymore. So it was decided that we should go downtown and look at a big fat Sleeping Buddha. And I, being a fan of Sleeping Buddhas ever since a certain summer day in Zhangye (or “Reclining Buddhas”, as they call them) was excited to […]


what royals drink

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Kokand, an old Khanate like Samarkand or Bukhara, had a very nice, relaxed feel to it. We got up early and checked out the Palace of Khudayar Khan: It was essentially a single-story structure spread around a bunch of courtyards: Reminded me of a regular Uzbek country home, just a lot bigger and a lot […]