Tag Archives: Serbia

a perfect tree

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This post is about a 26km walk from Svrljig to Knjaževac. I struggle with some more uphill roads, but then it gets easy. The night has been a bit better than the one before. But again everything is wet. Thick morning dew has covered the Caboose, the tent, and even the inside of the tent. […]


something to love

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This post is about a 21km walk from Malcha to Svrljig. I get a bottle of home-made slivovitz, and I struggle with an uphill road. Goddammit. I made exactly the same mistake as that time in November when I was sleeping in the village school of Samanci in Turkey. Again I figured that it would […]


out of the gate

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This post is about a 15km walk from Niš to Malcha. I hide from the rain in the Stambol Gate, then I take a dirt road through the hills. It’s a bit hard to say goodbye to Rajko and the family. His seven year old granddaughter shows one last pantomime: she puts one of her […]


the concentration camp they called “Red Cross”

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This post is about a visit to the Red Cross Concentration Camp in Niš. I have the rare opportunity to ride a bicycle. After breakfast, Rajko asked me to pick a bicycle. He wanted to take me to the Red Cross Concentration Camp in Niš. It was called “Red Cross” because when Nazi Germany built […]


the cyclist

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This post is about my friend Rajko the cyclist. I stay with him in Niš, and I play with his dogs until I fall asleep. I am staying with Rajko, a retired technician and cyclist. He reminds me of my old friend Uncle Shen from Ürümqi. Just like Uncle Shen, Rajko also waited until his […]


how far

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This post is about a 17km walk from Niška Banja to Niš. I see a sign pointing towards Beijing, and I visit the Skull Tower and Niš Fortress. Niška Banja was centered around a large sanatorium. It had a dark, Soviet look about it. But the park around it was nice. 7425km There was a […]


boy holds flag

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This post is about a 14km walk from Ravni Do to Niška Banja. I run into two German cyclists and struggle with a long downhill road. The thunderstorm never came. At least not to where I was. I woke up in perfect silence under the roof of the house on the top of the hill. […]


a new dress, baby

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This post is about a 24km walk from Klisura to Ravni Do. I wake up in a wet field and go to bed near an abandoned mountain cabin. It takes forever to dry my things. And so I sit on my chair in the field and let the morning sun do the work for me. […]


1-4-0-0-0

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This post is about a walk from Pirot to Klisura. I pass the 14,000km mark of The Longest Way, and I get into a bit of rain. The clouds are Simpsons clouds. They’re hanging lazily from the sky. No: they’re sitting there, piled up on the horizon. They look like they’re not moving at all. […]


easter eggs

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This post is about an easter egg in Pirot. I take a day off and manage to find some food in a roadside restaurant. I wake up way too early, and for some reason I can’t get back to sleep. So I decide to go downstairs to have breakfast, and then I walk over to […]


the lord has risen and I have fries

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This post is about a 27km walk from Dimitrovgrad to Pirot. I struggle to find food because it’s Easter and everything is closed. The day starts easy and warm. I stop at a gas station and ask for a sim card, but they don’t have any. Phoneless, I decide to try my luck at the […]


via militaris

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This post is about a 22km walk from Dragoman to Dimitrovgrad. I pass the border from Bulgaria into Serbia. People had warned me about the highway to the border: it was under construction, and so it was very narrow and very dusty. Also it was apparently quite busy. the good road I stayed on the […]