Monthly Archives: October 2021

the yellowing

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This post is about a 12km walk from Kayran to Doganyurt. It was the time when I noticed the leaves slowly getting yellow. Remember how I was cold when I was spending the night in my summer sleeping bag and Blankie in the village school a few days earlier? Well, this time I woke up […]


gut feelings

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This post is about a 25km walk from Inebolu to Kayran. My plan was to stay in a coastal village on the way, but instead I continued walking. I took a stroll through Inebolu in the morning. Officially I was just on a quest to buy some bananas, but what I really wanted was to […]


tiki torches

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This post is about a 26km walk from Abana to Inebolu. I reenacted a movie scene on the way, and in the end there were torches. It had rained heavily during the night. But when I left Abana in the morning, a bit of water here and there and a sense of freshness in the […]


mustang

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This is a post about a walk around Abana. I saw an abandoned hammam, a wooden mosque, and the main mosque at dusk. Before starting this leg of the walk I had promised everyone – including myself – that I would go easy on my body. No long distances, no complete exhaustion. I had to […]


club of kings

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This is a post about how I went fashion shopping in Abana. I ended up getting a wool hat that said KING and a bandana. I woke up clean. My body and my clothes: clean. My hair and my beard: also clean. I was in a room with a white bed. The receptionist had said […]


not all drivers

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This post is about an 18km walk from Samanci to Abana. I learned something about the hills west of here, and in the end I got very angry. Last night I made a mistake. I knew it was probably going to be a bit cold, but I decided to use my summer sleeping bag and […]


quad gang

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This post is about a 10km walk from Catalzeytin to Samanci. It involved a late start and (almost) no place to sleep. The sky had cleared up overnight. But at 11:00 in the morning it was still raining. I decided to stay put a little longer and see if I could wait it out. My […]


go back

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This post is about a 13km walk from Türkeli to Catalzeytin. It rained so heavily that I did something I rarely ever do – I turned around. Sinan’s guesthouse was booked today, so I couldn’t stay. This was bad because I needed to rest, and because I would have liked to spend more time with […]


the Austrian

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This post is about an 18km walk from Doganli to Türkeli. First I was awoken by a hedgehog, then by the prayer call. In the end I met an Ösi. At night, a hedgehog came to visit. Or rather: it seemed like the hedgehog was a regular guest in the saw mill, and my presence […]


lion’s milk

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This post is about a 23km walk from Ayancik to Doganli. I ended up staying in a sawmill where some gentlemen were having a drink. My legs weren’t ready to leave. They wanted to stay. They reminded me of it every time I walked up the stairs. How could they be so heavy? But the […]


give me your lokma

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This is a post about having some lokma in Ayancik. Oh, and I decided to sort through my stuff and mail some of it to Istanbul. There was a time in my life when I believed I was smart. That time is long gone. But there is something good about this. For with the realization […]


angry water

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This post is about a 23km walk from Gebelit to Ayancik. I saw some of the destruction left behind by the flood two months earlier. I don’t often remember my dreams, but tonight I did. In my dream I was in a building with a glass dome, and there was a tornado outside. So I […]


stuffed

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This post is about a 21km walk from Sarikum to Gebelit. I made a dog friend and found one of the best camping spots ever. The night had been surprisingly quiet. It doesn’t happen often that I manage to pick a good camping spot, but this time I did. Sure, there were a few birds […]


the wrong road

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This post is about a 15km walk from Akliman to Sarikum. It started out easy, but then I made a mistake and took the wrong road. I woke up from a sound. At first I thought it was traffic, but it turned out to be the sound of rain. When I went downstairs for breakfast, […]


more than nothing

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This post is about an 11km walk from Sinop to Akliman. It was my first day of walking in almost two years, and I wasn’t just out of shape. My friends made kuymak for breakfast, a cheese dish from the area of Trabzon. We drank tea and looked out the window, and I tried to […]


never ready

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This is a post about the last preparations I made before continuing my walk from Sinop. I was very nervous. I woke up early and found it impossible to go back to sleep, no matter how hard I tried. The nerves, the nerves. After an hour or so I decided go get up and take […]


reunion

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This is a post about what it feels like to be back in Sinop after almost two years, and to finally see the Caboose again. For a moment I wasn’t sure where I was. Morning light fell into the room, the wind was playing with the curtain, and I could taste saltiness in the air. […]