Tag Archives: walk🚶🏻
sunken beauty
I had stayed in a pensionat right on the Caspian Sea beach, and it had turned out to be awesome: The people were friendly, the rooms were simple and sort of clean, there was a bit of green between them and the beach, and there were little kitten to play with. The whole place was […]
putting the foot down in Azerbaijan
I don’t know why people say blue when they mean sad. I think of blue water, blue flowers, and the blue sky. When I stepped out of the door this morning, the sky was of a light and friendly blue: The road was very quiet: I passed a beauty salon: And I passed my first […]
scared
I woke up with a knot in my stomach. It was fear. Many months ago, when I was walking through Mashhad, two men saying they were police (and showing me ID) had demanded to see my papers and my money, and they had stolen a hundred dollars from me. I had made a blog post […]
hospitality and a cow
The rain had been so strong I had woken up in the middle of the night because of the hammering noise that it made on the roof. But when I got up in the morning, the rain was gone, and so were the clouds, and it was almost as if nothing had ever happened: I […]
they build their castles
When I left Talesh, I was looking at a distance of about 30 or 35 kilometers with no place to sleep. That meant the possibility of having to camp. But I was in a better mood than the day before. The highway was hugging the hills, and the hills were rolling: I sat in the […]
The Grumpiest Way
It was going to be a short, easy day. But when I woke up, I felt grumpy. I had no idea why I was that way. Maybe I was just tired. Maybe it had to do with hormones or something. The only thing I did know was that I did not want to talk to […]
enchanted
This morning my friend Hooman took me to a waterfall: But first, we had to cross this bridge: The waterfall was enchanting: It was the kind of place that makes you want to take off your clothes and swim (and possibly drink a Mojito). Of course none of this was possible. But it was awesome […]
the Audrey Hepburn among roads
I had spent the night in a nice little hotel on the roadside, and in the morning I took some photos with the owner: There are many pictures like this – many pictures, and an infinite more pictures that live only in memory. Then I was back on the asphalt again: The Caspian Sea was […]
a church in Iran
Sunday morning. I woke up in a hotel that was located in an old Russian building, high ceilings, big doors and all: It was a bit run down, but I loved it: And I wished I could have stayed longer. Instead, I went back to the Armenian church. It was behind two doors and an […]
sleep off the heat
Naturally and totally in line with her character, the Caboose decided to go kaput this morning, just as we were preparing to leave the eco lodge. And it wasn’t just a minor problem, either: we crossed a tree branch, there was a thumping sound, and one of the axles had snapped in half. There was […]
Mehdi did not wait
I had breakfast in a little place: Omelet. Bread. Tea. Then I continued walking down the path through the fields: Everything was quiet. There were not that many people around and not that many buildings, either. Some of the houses that I saw looked like their owners were preparing to shoot arrows from the roofs: […]
world, please
Much to my own surprise, I decided to leave Rasht this morning. After just one day. I had wanted to stay a bit and explore the city, but then my plans had changed, and so I got out the Caboose from her shelter, loaded her up, and left. After all, I could always come back […]
Rasht
Money was scarce in Iran. The value of the Rial was plummeting, and people were worried about the future. And still, this friendly hotel manager had insisted on buying me dinner the night before: Persian hospitality. I left Kuchesfahan under a thick cover of clouds: These little dudes caught up with me as I was […]
an American dog and a faceless man
As much as I enjoyed being there, I still had to leave Lahijan at some point. So I did. I walked out of Lahijan on a Friday morning, which meant that it was the weekend here in Iran, which in turn meant that most shops were closed and the streets were empty. I turned onto […]
tea of Gilan
Having gone to sleep at two, I somehow woke up at five thirty. I just lay there for a while. Then I got up, brushed my teeth, packed my stuff, and left: One of the dudes from the night before came along on his motorcycle and said goodbye: And then I was alone on the […]
finding a bridge
When I woke up I sighed, because I knew I had to go back to the noise and the confusion of the highway: I had studied the map the night before, and I had determined that there were a couple of waterways that I had to cross before I got back on the country road: […]
forced to ford
Gilan was like Mazandaran – hot, green, and full of rice paddies: I had decided to take a path through the villages, so I was a bit worried about the rivers that came out of the mountains and crossed my path (or rather: I crossed theirs). But an early bridge seemed to be reason for […]
lemon cake
The heat wasn’t the problem. The heat combined with the humidity was. It felt like a steam bath. Just a few minutes after I left the hotel I was drenched in sweat. The streets of Ramsar were empty: As you can see on the map, I tried to avoid the coastal highway as much as […]
120 cookies
Woke up and looked at the Caspian Sea: It was angry. There were signs like this all along these parts of the shore: I wondered if this was because the water was polluted or because the currents were stronger here. It didn’t matter. I had come to walk, not to swim. These two gentlemen stopped […]
looks cool
I was happy when I looked outside and saw clouds. Maybe walking would be more tolerable this way? Well, it was. Kind of. While the clouds did provide some cover from the sun, the overall humidity meant that everything was still hot and sticky anyway. I walked in short intervals and rested a lot: Sometimes, […]