The heat wasn’t the problem. The heat combined with the humidity was. It felt like a steam bath. Just a few minutes after I left the hotel I was drenched in sweat.
The streets of Ramsar were empty:
As you can see on the map, I tried to avoid the coastal highway as much as possible, going northwest from the city. I bought some peaches, and they were an explosion of savor:
Some of the villas in the hills next to the road were quite nice. This particular one reminded me a bit of Hundertwasser (zoom in to see the tilework):
And then I was back on the highway. There was a cable car that lifted people up to a place in the mountains were the heat was apparently more bearable:
They looked tempting, those mountains:
But all I could do at this point was stay on the highway and look at them from the distance:
There were rivers coming out of the mountains and emptying into the Caspian Sea, and often the highway seemed to be the only place to cross them:
I sat down for lunch in a roadside restaurant. I ordered Ghormeh Sabzi, the standard Iranian dish:
It tasted different everywhere I went. And it always seemed to taste best when it wasn’t in a restaurant but at someone’s home.
I left the highway again after that. There was a road that led through the villages and to an ecolodge that I had spotted on the map.
There was a phenomenon in Iran where sometimes I saw portraits in car windows:
The people in them had died.
I enjoyed being on the country road again. I saw little biker gangs:
And since the road was difficult to find (even with a GPS), I got to talk to a lot of people and ask them for the way:
These two dudes appeared three times, first in a blue truck:
Then in a green truck.
And then in a grey car:
They wanted to make sure I was on the right way. And I also suspected that they liked riding around in different cars.
I bought some tomatoes in this little shop:
And then I bought some bread in this bakery:
Then night fell:
I had left the province of Mazandaran and entered Gilan. And the air smelled sweet like lemon cake.
360 degree video: