Tag Archives: Iran 🇮🇷
I look just like Babrasse
Did some more back alley wandering in Gorgan today. Looked at some old buildings, or sometimes just parts of old buildings: And I tried to learn from the photography style of my friend Evgene Chernyakov, but I found it to be very difficult: I was utterly lost at some point, and this gentleman came and […]
to live in a house with an orange tree
So apparently Gorgan has a nice old city center, a bit like Bukhara or Isfahan. I walked around in it today. There was a little shrine called Noor Imam Zade Holy Place: It seemed to be a pretty standard Shia shrine: Lots of green. Lots of gold. A chandelier. There were some alleys leading through […]
good pain, bad pain
Ah, the pain. Again, it was a mix of different things. My body was sore, which felt good. But my right foot hurt more than it should have, which was bad. I decided to rest for a few days. Eventually I did end up taking a little walk around the immediate neighborhood of the hotel, […]
too much walking
I woke up in pain. It was good, full-body pain, so I wasn’t alarmed. Also, my foot hurt, but not too much. So I decided to do another 40k and walk all the way to Gorgan in one day. When I left the hotel I noticed this: In a country that had outlawed alcohol, cocktail […]
9-0-0-0
Today was going to be a big day. First of all, it was the beginning of Ramadan, the month of fasting in Islam: people wouldn’t eat or drink as long as the sun was up. As I understood it, in Iran this was a mandatory thing for all able-bodied adult Muslims (who weren’t currently doing […]
stay longer
I generally don’t like walking in the rain. Not for long periods of time, at least. So this morning, when I looked out the window and saw that the weather app had been right, that the weather was indeed going to be shitty all day, I decided to say fuck it and stay in. The […]
the road I would take
Day off. Went to a supermarket. Looked at stuff. Shampoo. Rope. Pickles. Seasoning. Diapers. Potato chips. Tea. Chocolate. Pasta. Oil. Tissues. Sanitary pads. Bought these biscuits, mainly because the picture on the label somehow spoke to me: When the day was old and the sun was about to go to bed, I went on top […]
between wheat and rice
I haven’t shown you Hotel Ghaboos, yet. Well, here it is: Hotel Ghaboos right behind the Caboose. Gonbad bid farewell to me with a strange statue of a Dalmatian dog: Then I was on the road: I left the main road after a few kilometers of noise and bad air, which was when I took […]
graduation
I needed to wax my shoes. So I went to a shop in the city and obtained the necessary tools: They had sewing machines from China: When I looked at them I felt a sting in my heart. Ever since I had left China almost two years earlier, a part of me had been missing […]
a detour and a sprint
I decided to take a detour. Instead of sticking to the mountains in the South, I would go westwards to Gonbad Kavus and look at an old tower there. This would cost me one walking day, but I liked old towers. Also, there was a hotel in Gonbad that was called Hotel Ghaboos, which sounded […]
lord of the flies
It had been a good night until five thirty in the morning, when a rooster started doing his thing right outside my door. Musa, the father of the family I had been staying with, gave me some bread and some eggs and some tea, and just as I was getting ready to leave, his daughters […]
sleeping goose
When I left the small village of Tangrah, the sky was blue and the scenery was green: I passed little villages… …and tracks that led into the forest: But I always stayed on the main road, and sometimes it looked almost as if I was walking through Germany: But behind me, and behind the Caboose, […]
penis country
I went to a land far, far away today. A land hidden within green hills: A land reachable by a steep and narrow path: A land of penises: This place is called Khalid Nabi, and it is believed to be a pre-Islamic cemetery. A lot of the stones are shaped in a schlongy way, and […]
gangsta hijabi
I was going to relax today. Do nothing. Just hours and hours of hammock time and reading. I felt like I needed to come down a little bit. I was walking alright, but I was also keeping myself pretty busy with other things. But alas, I failed. First, at breakfast, a gentleman who introduced himself […]
swinging away
Of course there wasn’t going to be any bacon. Nor was there going to be any beer. The wild boars (who were just glorified pigs basically) were free to roam around the jungle and be the kings of the trash, without anyone eating them. So I ordered some kebab and a can of coke, and […]
singing with happiness, burning with rage
I had some more trouble with my tires, but the dudes from the Red Crescent helped me get it fixed. They were overall nice guys, and they had given me great food and a warm place to spend the night: I was a bit shocked when I noticed that the barbecue stands outside were already […]
from the desert
I woke up somewhat refreshed and thanked Daniel, the caretaker of the place, for his hospitality: Then I was back on the desert road: I ran into Ali, a cyclist who was on his way to Mashhad: He seemed very happy to have reached the high point of the plateau. I was happy as well, […]
sheep whisperer
Hadi’s house was simple, but it was cozy: I actually quite enjoyed the simplicity of it: I said goodbye to my host: And then I said goodbye to the fire temple: The land was open, and could see flocks of sheep long before I met them: I had a good time exchanging loud baahs with […]
the fire temple
I left my rented room through the same alley that I had walked down the day before: The village looked like it was still asleep: This was when I discovered that I had a flat tire. Again. My pump had broken down, so I was pretty disappointed. But I decided that the tire wasn’t completely […]
uphill battle
I woke up in the restaurant with a feeling of dread. It was all too clear what lay before me – 13km steep uphill. Maybe rain. I said goodbye to Abolfaz and the restaurant: Luckily, after colossal rains during the night, it had stopped in the morning. I got on the road and ran into […]