Tag Archives: Uzbekistan

up the ladder to the roof

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We woke up late and had some fried fish in a restaurant outside of the city walls: There were things to see there as well… …but we ignored them and went back to the old town. To Tash Khauli, to be exact: This palace from the early 19th century had elaborately decorated wooden pillars… …and […]


equals S?

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The train ride was in fact two train rides. One to Navoiy, a place that I had previously walked through, and the other to Urgench, a city close to Khiva in the Northwest of Uzbekistan. The stopover in Navoiy was a bit strange, though, as we had to leave the train not on a platform […]


the brutal side

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When we woke up this morning, our guesthouse was filled with a group of engineers from Belarus who were working on a project in Turkmenistan: They came to Bukhara once a month in order to extend their residence permits, and they said if I got my Turkmen visa, then I would see them somewhere on […]


richer than him

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Today we did something refreshing. We went to Fayzulla Khujayev’s House: Fayzulla Khujayev doesn’t live there anymore. In fact, Fayzulla Khujayev doesn’t live anywhere, because Fayzulla Khujayev is dead. And he has been dead for a very long time. Back in the early 20th century, Fayzulla Khujayev used to be the richest man in the […]


El Gato Adolfo

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So back to Bukhara it was! Remember how I told you that I hadn’t really looked at anything while I was there almost a month ago? Well, now I was back, and I was back with her. We walked through the back alleys of old Bukhara: It was much more condensed than Samarkand, and there […]


sleep, dude

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When I woke up this morning, I didn’t feel that sick anymore. So it was decided that we should go downtown and look at a big fat Sleeping Buddha. And I, being a fan of Sleeping Buddhas ever since a certain summer day in Zhangye (or “Reclining Buddhas”, as they call them) was excited to […]


what royals drink

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Kokand, an old Khanate like Samarkand or Bukhara, had a very nice, relaxed feel to it. We got up early and checked out the Palace of Khudayar Khan: It was essentially a single-story structure spread around a bunch of courtyards: Reminded me of a regular Uzbek country home, just a lot bigger and a lot […]


amuse me

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Since we had decided to spend our time looking around Central Asia, we started with the Jami Mosque of Andijan: Like so many buildings in this part of the world, it seemed like a new structure that was supposed to look old: Even more so on the inside: And parts of this “new old” were […]


hey ho, let’s get a color copy!

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My plan to get a tourist visa for Turkmenistan was still in effect. I had found a very capable travel agent from Ashgabat. His name was Babageldi, and he seemed like a great guy. I felt optimistic. But all I could do now was wait. And I wasn’t alone. She had come to Uzbekistan to […]


more work

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I still hadn’t finished correcting the Chinese manuscript of my book “Neuschweinstein”, and the deadline was getting closer. So while she was outside doing all kinds of fun stuff, I sat on my bed and stared at my computer screen all day: This was work that I wasn’t going to get paid for. In fact, […]


the ten thousand

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If you like food, Tashkent is the best place in Uzbekistan. Sure, other areas have their own specialties, but only the big city offers such a large variety of different flavors to choose from, including Korean, Georgian, and Vietnamese. So we ate and we ate. Sometimes we had exotic foods, sometimes we tried local stuff: […]


next pahlava in Baku?

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Today was good. There was only a tiny hint of sadness, because I found out that the Azeri food joint where I would get my dosage of pahlava until just a few months ago had been closed and demolished: This was something typical of cities in this part of the world (China included) – everything […]


darker than… her

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Today was Bukhara’s big day: The Silk And Spice Festival. It seemed as though the whole town had shown up. Plus a bunch of student volunteers in white shirts and white caps. There was a music show going on, and some people in the audience were dancing as well: By loading the video, you agree […]


fest prep

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Woke up in Bukhara, aching. Went outside once, because there was some sort of noise that I could not quite identify: It was the final rehearsal for the Silk And Spice Festival parade. The real deal was going to take place the next day. To my untrained eyes and ears, it seemed as though everyone […]


a white dress with flowers

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Things often look very different at night than they do in the light of day. When I woke up this morning, the room seemed much better than before: Sure, it was very hot, so hot in fact that many of the other hotel guests were sleeping with their doors open, but it was an okay […]


forgotten sirup

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I woke up dreading the day. My spine still hurt, and I knew there was a high chance I would have to walk 50k today. I had some breakfast, then I went back to the road. There were truckloads of people being driven around, I suspected that they were working the fields somewhere: I walked […]


redder than red

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I left Bukhara without having looked at Bukhara. The plan was to do this another time. The road needed more walking first. So I set out this morning, and I walked. One of the first things I saw was this gas station, which had a rather long line of cars waiting in front of it: […]


old tourists

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With the Caboose, it was almost always the ball-bearings. I took her to a bicycle repair guy on the street corner today: And it took us a while, but I think we managed to fix the problem. Or at least contain it: I noticed that there were a lot of European tourists in Bukhara, and […]


forget about fast wifi

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Uzbekistan, albeit being a very nice place to visit, didn’t have very good access to the internet. Actually, in most places it was pretty painful. Yet there is one thing I don’t think I ever told you: Jizzakh, somewhere between Tashkent and Samarkand, had excellent internet. And I mean excellent. Bukhara, well, not so much. […]


Bukhara

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I was going to start walking at five in the morning, because I knew I was probably going to have to make 50k today. Only then I decided to sleep until seven, and I left the hotel at eight. On my way out of town, I stopped at this gentleman’s house: People in Uzbekistan seem […]