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the tallest in the world

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This post is about a 23km walk from Silheim to Ulm. I reach the Danube and the world’s tallest church, and I cross paths with myself. My hosts had to leave for work at seven in the morning, so I got up early and left with them. There was a veil of fog that slipped […]


where are they?

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This post is about a 19km walk from Kammeltal to Silheim. I look for Yenish people in Ichenhausen but only manage to find a former synagogue. I had spent the night on a campground in Kammeltal. It was actually a sort of trailer park for camper vans, but they let me stay anyway. When I […]


journeymen

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This post is about a 16km walk from Zusmarshausen to Kammeltal. I see the ruins of the Kuno Messerschmitt assembly site. After resting for a day in the guesthouse in Zusmarshausen, after doing my laundry and watching a few episodes of Party Down, I got up and walked into the forest. more planes from the […]


butcher birds

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This post is about a 27km walk from Augsburg to Zusmarshausen. I leave the Climate Camp and run into another environmentalist. I had ended up spending the night at the Climate Camp. My new friends Passion Fruit and Mandala had given me a little booth to sleep in, and I had parked the Caboose right […]


the kids are alright

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This post is about a 19km walk from Lake Mandicho to Augsburg. I see a very rich family’s house, and I meet some climate activists. I woke up in my bivouac sack. The grass around me was wet, the lake was quiet, and my friend Bower and his son Eric were still asleep under their […]


butt naked

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This post is about an 11km walk from Merching to Lake Mandicho. I arrive at a lake called Auensee and decide to do a very German thing. I had spent the night at another friend’s house: Ralph. More than twenty years earlier, we had worked together in a youth hostel in Frankfurt as part of […]


wise or blind

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This post is about a 22km walk from Unterumbach to Merching. I feel listless until I notice an outdoor art exhibition. When I left Unterumbach I felt groggy and weak. It had been raining almost the whole time while I was at my friend Bower’s place, so staying in and frying our brains with computer […]


ghost pepper

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This post is about a week of playing Dota 2 at Bower’s place. There are tears of pain (me) and tears of laughter (Bower). I ended up spending a week at Bower’s place. Seven days of cats, kids, movies, video games, computer games, walks in the forest, barbecues, and trips to the grocery store. Every […]


egg stealer

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This post is about a 20km walk from Bergkirchen to Unterumbach. I hang out with Hilde the cat, then I walk over to my friend’s house. The night before, when I arrived at the small village of Bergkirchen, the sky looked like wind and rain. So I rang the bell of a farm house and […]


the far right and their obsession with herbs

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This post is about a 16km walk from Dachau to Bergkirchen. I pass the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial and the herbary of the SS. I had stayed the night in a hotel next to a gas station, a fast food place, and a hardware store. When I stepped out of the front door in the […]


tee hee

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This post is about a 17km walk from Munich to Dachau. There is a lot of rain, and there is an underlying feeling of exhaustion. Time to go. I went and got the Caboose from her spot in the other yard, then I loaded her up. It took me a very long time for some […]


Return Of The Caboose

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This post is about the Return Of The Caboose. Several friends are involved in making her resurrection possible. And then, after one week, I received a call from building management: the janitor had told them that he had managed to retrieve the Caboose! Retrieve from… the scrap press? No. According to the janitor, she had […]


how the Caboose disappeared

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This post is about how the Caboose disappeared in Munich. Apparently a janitor decided to take her to a recycling yard. I had gone on a little vacation. There was a direct train from Munich to Rimini. Rimini was the place where I had lost all my stuff once, when someone had stolen my backpack […]


Munich

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This post is about a 20km walk from Waldtrudering to Munich. I have lunch in my favorite restaurant, get drenched and drunk. You live in an oasis, I told Anja as we were having breakfast. And it was true. I had crossed a few other oases before, big ones like Zhangye in Gansu and tiny […]


the oasis

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This post is about a 24km walk from Taglaching to Waldtrudering. I walk along a busy road for most of the day, then I reach an oasis. The evening had come with a series of questions and answers. First I ran into Andi, a young guy who was cleaning his car in the garage of […]


alpine

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This post is about a 24km walk from Viehhausen to Taglaching. I walk through forests and alpine landscapes, and I have a pistachio croissant. Everything was wet but my stuff wasn’t. The evening before I had asked at a random farm if I could pitch my tent on their property. “Sure”, they had said, and […]


water castle

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This post is about a 21km walk from the Inn riverside to Viehhausen. I walk through Wasserburg am Inn and feel a weird sense of pressure. I woke up a few times during the night because it rained. Each time it was only a light drizzle, and I was safe in my bivouac sack. But […]


little screams

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This post is about a 14km walk from Kemating to the Inn riverside. I wake up in a field, visit an abbey, and sleep next to the river. The night before, as I was looking for a place to sleep, I ran into Sepp I. He was an outdoor enthusiast about to go into retirement, […]


cakes and camps

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This post is about a 22km walk from Mรผhldorf to Kemating. I have cake with Louise, and then I visit a bunker in a forest. The town was very quiet in the morning. Maybe it was because today was a Sunday. Or maybe everyone was just sleeping off their hangover from the night before. stuck […]


thank the Black Madonna

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This post is about an 18km walk from Altรถtting to Mรผhldorf. My friend Louise and I see a Black Madonna and go to a street festival. It had rained a bit during the night, so everything was wet when I got up. So I sat in Alois’ yard for a few hours, doing my exercises, […]