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against our will

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This post is about a 19km walk from Marckolsheim to Sélestat. I visit the Memorial Museum of the Rhine Maginot Line in Marckolsheim. I had spent the night on the farm of a friendly gentleman called Pierre. Pierre dealt in timber, spoke excellent German, and gave me a bag of cookies. the Maginot Line Then […]


fall of the leaves

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This post is about an 18km walk from Biesheim to Marckolsheim. I pass a Jewish cemetery and the border between Upper and Lower Alsace. Biesheim was quiet when I left. I saw a woman in a car and a man on a bicycle, and then I found myself on the EuroVelo 15. I loved it. […]


city planning

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It was perfectly This post is about a 6km walk from Neuf-Brisach to Biesheim. I walk through a fortified town and eat a very good pizza. I woke up on a French campground feeling happy but exhausted. Maybe the inclines and declines of the High Black Forest had exhausted me, or maybe I just hadn’t […]


isn’t it strange how dreams fade and shimmer?

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This post is about a 23km walk from Opfinger Lake to Neuf-Brisach. I have decided to take a detour through France just because. I had bivouacked next to the Opfinger See, an artificial lake in a forest. It was supposed to be very popular with bathing guests in the summer, but by now the season […]


and then?

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This post is about a 17km walk from Merzhausen to Opfinger Lake. I stock up on outdoor equipment and meet up with David from Mundologia. I had stayed at my friend’s place for a day. Went to the city and got a new pair of shoes (I always kept a spare pair in the Caboose) […]


descent

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This post is about a 25km walk from Hinterwaldkopf to Merzhausen. I lose almost 1000m in altitude on my way down towards Freiburg. Even though my thermarest had turned into a bouncy castle, it had been a surprisingly relaxing night. I fell asleep to the call of an owl and woke up to the singing […]


tiny houses

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This post is about an 18km walk from Titisee to Hinterwaldkopf. I see some miniature Black Forest houses and go higher into the hills. The campground was tightly packed with camper vans and full-sized motor homes. I had never seen this many of them in one place. They stood side by side on a terraced […]


let’s all go to the lake

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This post is about a 17km walk from Friedenweiler to Titisee. I arrive at Titisee and see a bunch of tourists and clocks. I stayed for two days in a cozy room under a pitched roof in a small guesthouse in a tiny village in the Black Forest. One time I decided that I wanted […]


silva nigra

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This post is about a 19km walk from Waldhausen to Friedenweiler. I suddenly find myself in the High Black Forest. I woke up next to an old mill. It had a silo that looked a bit like a guard tower. It had been a very good night, cool and refreshing in my tent under a […]


the source

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This post is about a 17km walk from Riedsee to Waldhausen. The Caboose and I reach Donaueschingen, the official source of the Danube. I woke up alone on a campground at Riedsee. Lea and Emmi had gone home the evening before, and so I was alone again. Alone with the Caboose and a deflated unicorn […]


1-7-0-0-0

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This post is about a 17km walk from Hintschingen to Riedsee. I cross the 17000km mark on The Longest Way, and a unicorn performs a dance. We woke up under the bridge near Hintschingen. It was hazy. I didn’t want to put on the unicorn costume anymore, but Lea wasn’t having any of it. “It’s […]


Lemmi

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This post is about a 19km walk from Tuttlingen to Hintschingen. Lea Geibel and her adorable dog Emmi are walking with me for a bit. I woke up in a free camp site right in the center of Tuttlingen. Lea and her dog Emmi were in a tent next to me, and before I knew […]


the secret door

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This post is about a 29km walk from Beuron to Tuttlingen. I find a secret door in the forest and arrive late to an appointment. I got up, folded the plastic sheet and placed it next to the house, did my exercises, had breakfast, all while waiting for my stuff to dry. Then I got […]


beggar’s kitchen

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This post is about a 28km walk from Inzigkofen to Beuron. I enter the Upper Danube Nature Park and get ignored at a monastery. Four days of rain. I spent them in a guesthouse in the village, and it wasn’t so bad. The room was cheap, and there was a supermarket nearby where I was […]


wet dream of the tradfash

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This post is about a 17km walk from Heudorf to Inzigkofen. I walk past a refugee camp and a neo-gothic castle, and it rains. The night had been a bit difficult. Two separate thunderstorms had passed by, one to the east of the hut and the other one to the west, and both had brought […]


Roy

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This post is about an 8km walk from Hundersingen to Heudorf. I start the day by playing Mario Kart, and then I camp next to a forest cabin. After breakfast the kids and I sat down and played Mario Kart. I was worried about their skills, so I picked Roy as my driver because he […]


Pyrene

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This post is about a 14km walk from Riedlingen to Hundersingen. I bathe in the Danube, see a Celtic dig, and get saved from a thunderstorm. What a morning! I crawled out of my tent, brushed my teeth, took my underwear off, and hopped in the Danube. morning swim The river was cold and clear, […]


brutalist beauty

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This post is about a 20km walk from Untermarchtal to Riedlingen. I visit one of the most beautiful churches I’ve ever seen. I was woken up by church bells. It was six in the morning, and the bells were very close and extremely loud. a night at the church The night before I had arrived […]


morning coffee

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This post is about a 24km walk from Öpfingen to Untermarchtal. I have breakfast with Vivien and Luisa, then I lose the Danube. I had slept well under the apple tree. There weren’t that many apples, which was good because many apples usually meant many wasps. And Germany was full of fucking wasps. Vivien and […]


crossing paths with myself

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This post is about a 26km walk from Ulm to Öpfingen. I stand on a bridge that I have crossed before, and I sleep under an apple tree. I rested in Ulm for two days. Then I walked down to the Danube. the bridge There was a bridge over the river, which I had crossed […]