Blog

the fires and the pots

Posted on

A few kilometers into the day, Nihal and Kader call me into their yard to have breakfast with them and their colleagues. They’re into the dairy business. There is much laughter at the thought of how long my hair and my beard will be once I have made it to Germany. Back on the road […]


of mice

Posted on

An afternoon, a sky covered in grey clouds, a corner near the ocean where a cat is playing with a mouse. At first I’m sure the mouse must be dead, as it’s dangling lifelessly between the cat’s teeth. But when the cat sets it down almost gently, the mouse looks around for a moment, then […]


Erdoganstan

Posted on

Rize, that’s one hundred thousand people on the coast of the Black Sea. It’s the home of the current president (who appears to moonlight as an educator). And it’s the center of the Turkish tea industry. I have been passing by lots and lots of tea factories on my way here from Georgia. Basically every […]


the stepchild

Posted on

Today the road shows me another face. Up until now, it has mostly been made up of two lanes in each direction, divided in the middle, with an emergency lane on either side. Now those emergency lanes are gone. Sometimes each direction consists of three lanes, though. Yay for drivers, I guess? There is a […]


leaving China

Posted on

I’m in bed. The tunnels and the guardrails and the glorious pink sunset, they are behind me. I have not written a word until now. There was never enough time. When I close my eyes I see myself walking into a small town called Pazar. That was at noon, and Pazar turned out to be […]


the pudding, though

Posted on

I remember once when I was in school, one of my teachers started talking about a thing called “world cuisines”. Apparently, there was only a limited number of countries with a food culture deserving of the name. I don’t think anyone was surprised when he told us that German food hadn’t made the cut. Sausages […]


why I love jellyfish

Posted on

The rain clouds came upon Ardesen at night, and they decided to stay. Unable to find a nice, small guesthouse, I have taken up room in a three-star hotel where guns are not allowed and where there is an illuminated blue sky as a ceiling in the hallways. The Caboose is parked downstairs next to […]


feeling close

Posted on

There was one little bug that insisted on spending the night under my air mattress. I tried to talk it out of it, but to no avail. It was as black and shiny as it was determined, that bug. I woke up a few times during the night, not because of my bug buddy but […]


happy bullets

Posted on

Turkish roads are wider than those in Georgia. And they seem to be better maintained. That doesn’t help me, though. Every time I take a long break from walking I am bound to have a hard time getting back into it. This time is no exception. Sometimes I see billboards of the president. There must […]


leaving the corner

Posted on

Gonio means “corner” in Georgian. And what a strange little corner it is. The sun shines bright in Gonio. The clouds rain heavily in Gonio. The dogs are friendly in Gonio. Everyone is very relaxed in Gonio. Having spent a month in the corner, tanning, swimming, reading, socializing, I felt that Gonio had taken some […]


The Longest Warrior and the difficulty of doing nothing

Posted on

Remember how a while ago I started making merchandise for those who wanted a part of The Longest Way? Well, here’s a brand-new shirt: And not just that. There’s also new mugs and other stuff: The design is called The Longest Warrior, and it was made by The Pumpkinbear: Oh, and I’m going to be […]


ruin value

Posted on

I spent the night in front of an abandoned house in the hills. An old man had suggested I go there to sleep, so I had no way of backing out. But I felt spooked. Some of the windows were busted in, and the doors had been locked and then blocked from the outside. As […]


listening to my breath

Posted on

Words of friendship and a bottle of wine. “When you are feeling weak – drink a bit of this” says my inked friend, then he lifts one hand to the sky. May God protect me. I stay on the back road, and it is quiet and nice. Wearing light trail runners, I feel myself floating […]


chained up

Posted on

At first I was afraid, I was petrified. Kept thinking I could never sleep on karaoke night. But then I left the window open and I listened to their songs, and I grew strong, and I learned to get along. And so I’m back, from outer space, and I’m resting in my hammock in this […]


the end of the world

Posted on

I’m staying at a hotel two blocks from the beach. The owner, a man with big, inked arms and the face of a tough guy, gives me wine, laughs roaringly, and lives in order to distribute fist bumps. “But” he asks me, “have you heard of Jehova’s Witnesses? My friends and I are Jehova’s Witnesses. […]


no amusement

Posted on

My first night at a camp ground is behind me. It felt like a caravanserai: campers herding their cars, motorcycles, and tents into little spaces, then hurrying off to use the restrooms or grab some food at a table in the center of the camp site. The road is as narrow as it is busy. […]


Hello, Black Sea!

Posted on

I wake up with one of the shittiest songs ever stuck in my head. “Under My Thumb” by the Rolling Stones. It’s apparently about a dude who manages to romantically suppress a woman, so yay for a wholesome ear worm! Sometimes I wonder how boomers can pretend to be outraged at punk or hip hop […]


kicking the shit out of some dogs

Posted on

I’m staying in this small hotel here: It’s got everything: rooms, food, a shop, restrooms, a shower, wifi, and non-stop dance music that is very loud. I am enjoying it. Doing some laundry, resting my feet. Oh, and yesterday I found myself kicking the shit out of some dogs. And I mean full-on football penalty […]


biting bread

Posted on

I woke up a bunch of times. Sometimes it was people honking. Sometimes it was people yelling. One time it was a thunderstorm. Once, in a dream, I found myself at a shooting range for high-tech rubber bullet guns. I wanted to point the gun at my own leg to see how it felt, but […]


Madame Le Pig

Posted on

Right off the bat, I run into two Germans. We are everywhere. I’m just surprised the Mars Rover hasn’t found any yet. “Ja, guten Tag, nice to meet you here! It is quite cold on this planet, isn’t it? Thank god we have the best outdoor coats and thermal underwear, haha, jaaa!” I give another […]