culiado

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This post is about a 16km walk from Nierstein to Mainz. We get drunk with Argentinians and have difficulties getting into Mainz. Did you hear that? I asked the weirdo. When we looked outside, we saw a green, train-like vehicle moving through the vineyards. A bunch of people were sitting in it, and they were […]


the worst war

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This post is about a 15km walk from Guntersblum to Nierstein. We rest at the castle ruins in Oppenheim, then we camp in the vineyards. Ah, so relaxed! After two and a half days in the winery we felt good again, and so we packed our stuff, bought another bottle of Xenia for the way, […]


to the wine!

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This post is about a 5km walk from Mettenheim to Guntersblum. We wake up in a pavilion in the vineyards and walk to a winery. I was just waking up, and the sky was still a shade of dark blue when I heard a bunch of kids riding past us on their bicycles. “Look, someone […]


deluxe camping experience

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This post is about a 17km walk from Worms to Mettenheim. We sleep in our tent even though we have paid for a hotel room. We did something stupid today. Or smart. But definitely stupid. We had paid for a hotel room in Worms, and the payment was non-refundable. And yet we decided to leave […]


oh, when I get low

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This post is about a day of sightseeing in Worms. We see the Martin Luther Monument, the cathedral, and the Nibelung Museum. Worms was one of the places most closely associated with Martin Luther. It hadn’t gone down well with the Catholic church that Luther had asked for reforms in 1517, and a few years […]


chemical streets

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This post is about a 22km walk from Ludwigshafen to Worms. We walk along the BASF chemical plant for a long time. Walking out of Ludwigshafen felt a bit weird. Everything was either made of asphalt or concrete, the residential buildings seemed to be mostly prefab, and there were flyovers everywhere. At least some of […]


a stone on a grave

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This post is about a 25km walk from Speyer to Ludwigshafen. We visit the Jewish cemetery of Speyer and walk late into the night. We went to the Jewish cemetery first. Or rather: we went to the part of the Christian cemetery that had been given to the Jewish community in the late 19th century. […]


where the Shapiros are from

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This post is about Jewish life in Speyer. We visit a museum holding the ruins of the old synagogue and the ritual bath. We stayed in Speyer for two days and looked around a little bit. Speyer wasn’t just a Königspfalz and the site of the Imperial Cathedral of Speyer, it was also home to […]


I’m becoming a car-hater and there’s nothing I wanna do about it

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This post is about a 13km walk from Lingenfeld to Speyer. We reach the Imperial Cathedral of Speyer, and so do a bunch of cars. We had spent the night on a lot for motorhomes. It was next to a campground that had closed for the season, and there were no amenities except for a […]


grown-ups like to get lost

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This post is about a 21km walk from Leimersheim to Lingenfeld. We learn about corn mazes and find a place that serves burgers. Swole Stefan had been right: Fritz, the owner of the farm with the corn maze, was a kind man. He let us pitch the tent under an overhanging roof on his premises, […]


without the wolf

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This post is about a 24km walk from Neuburg to Leimersheim. We walk through a town that prides itself on a dead wolf. We stayed in Neuburg for two days. The guesthouse was clean and quiet, and it was run by a friendly lady who really liked to talk about Mongolia. Her daughter-in-law was from […]


tipsy in the danger zone

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This post is about an 18km walk from Munchhausen to Neuburg. It’s the second border crossing into Germany. The last one, I think. We woke up on yet another campground. Again it was camper vans and mobile homes all around. Just almost no people at all. We brushed our teeth, packed up our stuff, fetched […]


dicking around

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This post is about a 19km walk from Staedly to Munchhausen. The weirdo and I end up taking artsy pictures in a nightly forest. We left the grumpy Germans (and a friendly Dutch couple) and got back on the road. There was still a bit of France left on the way, which meant baguettes and […]


cheers to imperialism?

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This post is about a 12km walk from Drusenheim to Staedly. We see a bunch of old trucks and hear some drunk Germans rant about politics. The night in the pavilion had been great: a light buzz from the vodka, no need for the outer tent, no issues with morning dew, a nice view over […]


mosquitoes

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This post is about a 15km walk from Gambsheim to Drusenheim. We wake up around mosquitoes and go to sleep around mosquitoes. We had spent the night on a campground next to a lake in Gambsheim. There were a lot of municipal campgrounds in France, which was a good thing, but many of them were […]


ways to look

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This post is about a 20km walk from Strasbourg to Gambsheim. The weirdo and I run into the artwork “Les Arbrorigènes” in the forest. After two days in Strasbourg, the weirdo and I packed up the Caboose and started walking in a northeasterly direction, towards the Rhône–Rhine Canal. cycling cities The way out of Strasbourg […]


lingering picon

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This post is about a 25km walk from Krautergersheim to Strasbourg. I walk past a lot of cabbage and finally get a bike lock for the Caboose. That headache you get from too much beer with too little sleep. La classe! At one point during the night, a guy had shown up at my tent […]


walks past

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This post is about a 20km walk from Zotzenberg to Krautergersheim. I revisit some places that I have walked through in 2005. Back in 2005 I went on a little walk through Alsace. 2005 I wasn’t alone back then, though. My brother Rubi, my friend Pummi, and our family dog Puki went with me. Later […]


I, postmaster

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This post is about a 21km walk from Sélestat to Zotzenberg. I try to deliver a postcard and outrun the rain. The weirdo left Sélestat by train, I left on foot. We were going to meet again a few days later in Strasbourg. the warning I headed in the direction of northwest towards the Vosges, […]


old books

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This post is about a visit to the Humanist Library of Sélestat. The weirdo is there. The library has incunabula. The weirdo was going to come. Don’t ask me who the weirdo is. Anyway, the weirdo was going to come. out and about with the weirdo And the weirdo came. We ate and we drank. […]