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This post is about a 32km walk from Tismana to Rasoviţa. I learn that I have to change my route, and I end up sleeping next to a graveyard.

I don’t go back to the monastery. Instead I have tea with Alexandra and John, a couple from Bucharest who are renting a bungalow close by.

the plan

The way to Runcu goes up and down like ripples on the ocean, and it wears me out. But the thought of getting a guest house and resting for two days before my ascent into the mountains keeps me going.

When I arrive it’s already past sunset. I go to a guest house that looks huge and fancy, and I ask for the price. Huge and fancy indeed. I keep walking. At the next guest house I inquire about the road into the mountains before I make a decision.

the information

This is when I learn that the road that I have been planning to take really isn’t for me. It’s only asphalt for a few kilometers, they tell me, then it’s a steep gravel path that even a jeep can’t handle for sure.

I decide to go to a bar and get a second opinion. It’s not really a bar. Two dudes and a woman are sitting under a light bulb in front of a shop and drink. I ask them about the road and they, too, shake their heads. Impossible, they say.

Impossible is nothing! I want to reply but then I remember that that’s a cliché and that you’re supposed to listen to the people who know aka the locals. One of the dudes buys me a beer, and we sit in the light of the light bulb and look at the road.

the decision

I decide to keep going, to not get a room, to not rest, and to take a different way through the mountains. I leave the road and start walking through the fields.

It’s dark. The night makes the sounds more clear. I walk without my light because I want to keep my eyes used to the darkness. There is a thunderstorm behind the mountains. I can see it sometimes, and sometimes I can hear the soft rumble of thunder. I am a bit worried about where I will sleep. The dirt path has no options, only fields and more fields.

the water and the graves

I turn the light on after a while, and it’s good that I do, because there’s water ahead. First I can only hear the frogs burping in the darkness, and I suspect that something is wrong. Then I step into something soft, and it makes a slurping sound. It takes me a while to get around the water in the darkness.

When I’m finally back on the road I keep walking for a little while, then I see a cemetery in the distance and decide to pitch my tent next to its gate.


the walk from Tismana to Rasoviţa:

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