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This post is about a rest day in Esztergom. We check out the Esztergom Basilica, and we have a very good falafel wrap.

The church was huge indeed. It had been built in the mid-1800s, and it was currently undergoing restoration works. Every twenty minutes or so a bus with a group of tourists would arrive outside, upon which the building would be filled with sounds of shuffling feet, murmurs, and fake camera shutters for a little while. Apart from that, it was quiet. Brad and I each lit a candle, then we left.

the empty town

Esztergom was small, picturesque – and felt strangely deserted. There seemed to be almost no people around, no locals and no tourists. There wasn’t even that much traffic. Brad shrugged: she didn’t mind a place that was quiet. She was from bustling, overcrowded, bursting-at-the-seams Tbilisi.

When we went to a pharmacy to pick up the next batch of my MS medication, I noticed another map of historical Hungary on the wall. It felt annoying at this point. Which country in the world didn’t have a history of territorial gains and losses? Did Hungarians really think they were the only nation that would like to be return to some fabled “golden era”? Why were they so butthurt about this?


We ended up spending two days in Esztergom. Both days we went to a local dรถner place that had opened shop just a week earlier. The owners were nice, and they served falafel wraps that were tasty and – more importantly – vegan.

Brad was vegan, and I had been vegetarian for a few years. Actually, I had decided to become vegetarian after hanging out with Brad and some other vegan and vegetarian friends in Gonio in the summer of 2019.

Turns out being vegetarian was easy as fuck.


a rest day in Esztergom:

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