Tag Archives: walking

four star walk

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I woke up in the bliss of what had turned out to be a four star hotel: When I had shown up the night before, coming in from the darkness, out of my mind from exhaustion, the hotel staff had smiled and given me a special price. The hotel seemed much too nice for a […]


I hate tunnels

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I said goodbye to the Red Crescent dudes: Then I was back on the road, which had started to wind around the mountains: Sometimes, in the valleys, I saw fields of rape (or: rapeseed), and somehow there were always people in them who were taking selfies: My back felt better than the day before, and […]


heavy clouds and a red crescent

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I was told that a Spanish traveler had arrived in my hotel. A Spanish woman? I asked. The answer was no, no, no, a shake of the head. The dude’s name was Raul, and his motorcycle was a bit intimidating, a machine designed to grind the concrete and make dust fly: Reza from the hotel […]


the day that won

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I woke up with the morning light that fell into the room: And I found myself in a good mood. We all had breakfast, then Vahid’s family watched me load up the Caboose: Vahid took my camera and ran off to photograph his dad with his friends repairing the car: Then we posed for a […]


milk

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When I left, it was another sunny day, and walking felt easy. These two dudes came running after me until they were out of breath, then they asked for a picture: If you look at the map you can see a dotted line. I crossed it today, stepping into my second Iranian province. But nothing […]


the brothers near the shrine

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I left Quchan in the sunshine, and everything was swell. Passed a big fat truck: Passed a monument that looked like… me: Somewhere along the way this gentleman stopped his tractor and asked me to take his picture, so I did: There was laughter in the air and much singing of birds, and my forearms […]


space invaders

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The night had seen rain: So I gave the Caboose her orange cover, and then we set out: It was miserable walking next to the highway with the drizzle and the cold and the trucks coming our way like Space Invaders: Remember I told you about the memorials to the fallen soldiers from the Iran-Iraq […]


the pilgrim

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When I woke up everything was swell, and the village was totally quiet. Only old folks and young children on the street. I ran into this tractor driver and asked him if there was a road to Quchan that led through the villages: He said no. So I walked in the direction of the highway, […]


into orchards

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I wanted to continue on the nice quiet country roads, so I asked the people of the eco-lodge in Radkan to help me come up with a roadmap to Quchan, and they did: It was basically going to be village hopping. The road was so quiet it was mezmerizing: One time I ran into a […]


please tell me it used to be all blue!

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A friend had told me about a village called Radkan northwest of Chenaran. It had an ancient tower and an eco-lodge where I would be able to stay. I decided to walk there, but not on the main highway. Instead, I was going to try to find a way through the countryside. I wasn’t sure […]


hotel hunt

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When I woke up in the mosque, and its doors were still shut and my things were still there, and the morning light came shining in from outside, I felt relieved. I was tired as hell, though. So I slowly packed up my stuff, then I turned back and took a last look at the […]


strong winds bring coldness and thievery

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When I got up, I first had to finish a large plate of food that a friendly man named Ahmad had brought me the night before. Then another villager, Kerman, took me to his field for a photo session: I have always been bad with plants. I like them, or most of them (the ones […]


invisible Afghans on the old road

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When I left in the morning the sky was overcast: I liked overcast, because it meant that it wouldn’t be that hot. The road led me past painted walls most of the time. Some of them were quite colorful: There was a place apparently advertising sheep’s head for breakfast: I passed. Instead, I went to […]


wedding guest

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So finally, finally, finally, after all this time, we were on the road again, the Caboose and I. We took a sort of highway out of Mashhad: Then it turned into a country highway in the outskirts: I took a lunch break next to a waterpark: And then I ran into this guy: Poor dude […]


my yoke is easy

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So I left. I figured the least I could do was walk to a friend’s house in the western part of the city. Leave the crowded area around the shrine. Leave the roaches. Breathe. It turned into a very angry walk. I squeezed through some of the most insane traffic I had ever witnessed. The […]


Mashhad

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Woke up in Hassan’s place, had breakfast, watched some cartoons on the tele. We took some pictures of Hassan: And of his little daughter Mahdiye: Hassan insisted that we comb my hair (he had been a barber at one point in his life), and I suffered in silence: It was all very relaxed: Then we […]


The Longest Meal

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Today I learned that this was in fact not Hassan’s place, but that of Mahdi, his son-in-law. How did I find out about this? Well, because Hassan asked me if I wanted to come over. To his place. But first we properly gorged ourselves. We had breakfast: And then we watched some TV and had […]


and when I say perfect

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So I left the village of Abravan, and I saw it become smaller and smaller in the distance: Passed another melon stand: And then the industrial outskirts of Iran’s second largest city, Mashhad, started to appear: It was becoming increasingly clear that Iran, just like the other countries on my way, had a trash problem: […]


decorated cars

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I left the madrasa early in the morning, and when I did, almost everyone else was in class already. Some of the guys had come to see me off, and I decided to take my Let’s Walk video right there: And then I was back on the road: One time a large herd of sheep […]


all the verses

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The night had been a bit bright with the lights of the mosque, and it had been a bit noisy with the people who came to rest, drink some water, or wash their hands from time to time. But it was okay. I left early in the morning: Saw a shepherd: Saw a truck: Many […]