Tag Archives: taking care of stuff

orders

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The day before, when I went out to get the new thermos, I also got these plastic boxes that I wanted to use to bring some order to the inside of the Caboose: Oh, and here is the thermos, green and shiny: I was told my postal package had finally arrived, so I went downtown […]


friend from another place

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I was told by DHL that my package had long reached the border of Azerbaijan, but apparently it was unclear where exactly it was right now. So all I could do was wait. In the morning I went to a café and had semolina porridge, which is one of the most awesome things in the […]


shades incoming

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Being back in Baku didn’t mean grabbing the Caboose to waltz out of town right away. I was waiting for a postal package from Germany: new hard drive, new SD-card, new microphone, sunglasses. Wait, sunglasses? Yes. I hated everyone who wore shades (especially the reflective kind), but deep inside I knew I was just being […]


the whisper

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I was still waiting for my visa for Azerbaijan. And I was still in Aktau. I didn’t feel very sad or lonely anymore, though. Maybe a little, just a little. Anyway, I went out to the beach today: Rolled out my trusted bamboo mat, looked at the waves of the Caspian Sea, remembered a time […]


saved by the macaron

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Aktau was a fairly new town – like 19th/20th century new. Many buildings were from the 1960s and 70s, which meant they looked like this: Sometimes they had little shops in them: But there were also these fascinating ruins: Was it an old madrasa, like the ones I had seen in Iran a few months […]


the meteor

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There was at least one thing I liked about Aktau: The trash containers had separate spaces for plastic bottles. This seemed pretty sophisticated compared to what I had seen elsewhere on my walk. Apart from this pleasant discovery, though, I was miserable. People often asked me about loneliness. “Chris, don’t you feel lonely when you’re […]


keep calm and

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I woke up in an empty hotel on an empty beach. It was near an empty street: Aktau, it seemed, was a place without people. There was a small shopping centre nearby. I went there and looked around. Did I need a new notebook to write my diary? Maybe. There were some notebooks, and one […]


the dictatorship of the ticket

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Booking flight tickets is an act that makes you passive. You’re free to make all kinds of choices until you have your ticket. And then suddenly your life revolves around the time of your flight. You can still make little choices, if only to maintain the illusion of activity. But really you’re just passively waiting […]


pictures you don’t like

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Went to the Palace of the Shirvanshahs today. It had basically been turned into a museum: The whole place looked like it had been thoroughly reconstructed, so I was happy to find that this little mausoleum in the back still showed some scars of time, some traces of imperfection: The tentacles were always there, reaching […]


my antiques

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Remember how I had tried to mail some of my written diaries and my SD-cards home two months earlier? I had failed that time, and now I had returned to try again. I gathered my things – the diaries, the SD-cards, a book I had finished reading, and some gifts from my friends that had […]


Iran’s fastest immigration police?

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My visa (the one that I had gotten in Armenia one month before) was about to run out. So I needed to extend it, just like I had done when I was in Bojnurd three months earlier. So I put on my plastic bathing slippers (the ones that I had bought in Turkmenistan almost a […]


the axle rose

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The Caboose was not well. One of her wheels (the spare) had badly damaged ball bearings, a problem that had become acute two weeks earlier, when I had arrived in Chalus from Chalandar. “No worries, it’s just the spare!” I would tell myself, “I can get it fixed somewhere along the way!” But what good […]


wood for sheep

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I arrived in Tehran around noon: This city had always been a bit intimidating to me – 15 million people trapped in a concrete jungle, more traffic deaths than most other capital cities in the world, the political center of Iran. But this time I was going to spend two or three days here and […]


B.Y.O.B.

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Being in Yerevan felt nice, but the road was calling me. Come back, come back! it whispered, the Caboose is waiting! So this morning I went to the long-distance bus terminal and waited there: The bus turned out to be just like the others before it: lots of leg room, half empty. My heart bled […]


policy

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Hungover as I was, I ended up walking to the city center and to a place called Café Champagne, which was incidentally also where I had had my first beer in Armenia a few days earlier. There could be no thought of ordering beer this time, though. Instead I got soup and water. It seems […]


hazy cascades

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Woke up and worked my way through the leftovers from the day before. This meant more sushi, which meant more wasabi, which meant a thorough cleansing of the head, which meant space for happy thoughts: I fucking love sushi. Then I walked around in Yerevan for a while: Took a time-lapse at Republic Square, a […]


come for the visa, stay for the…

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I went to the Iranian Embassy today. Their website said they were open in the morning, while people on travel forums said they accepted visa applications only in the afternoon. I wanted to be safe, so I went there in the morning. They told me to come back in the afternoon, so I walked around […]


Mafia Is A Lifestyle

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The night before had ended up as an impromptu vodka-party with a bunch of Iranian tourists. When I woke up this morning, I was hardly able to move. And since it was the weekend and there was no way to apply for my visa anyway, I decided to stay in. I went out in the […]


the hair of a woman

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After a night of twisting and turning in my seat, interspersed with moments of sleep here and there, I woke up when the bus suddenly stopped and vomited us into the Armenian landscape. It was beautiful, and it was serene: There were flowers and boxes full of bees, and it smelled like the flowers, and […]


watching it rush by

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I don’t like bus rides. And the longer they last, the worse I feel about them. So I wasn’t particularly happy when I went to a long-distance bus station this morning and tried to find my bus to Yerevan in Armenia: But I ended up finding it, and it ended up offering just as much […]