Tag Archives: resting

never been to Tehran

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My train arrived in Tehran at about seven: I stumbled out of the station and into the morning… …took a cab to my friend Homa’s house… …and stayed there all day. I had been wanting to go out and look at Tehran. But I was too tired.


the peacock

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I was going to leave Isfahan and take a night train to Tehran today. Needed to catch my flight to Taiwan from there. But! There was at least one more mosque on the Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan that I hadn’t seen yet: It was the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, a rare private mosque that a […]


a village called Sin

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There was a village outside of Isfahan, a little to the north of the city. The name of the village was Sin. I decided to go there and check out an old mosque that was there. You could not miss the mosque; it had a minaret that was rather tall, rather slender, and rather lopsided: […]


half of the world

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Went to an old mosque today, the Atiq Jameh Mosque: It didn’t seem very special at first, as it was basically just a large square with some adjacent arches, similar to many other mosques I had seen before: But the inside was spectacular: These pillars, albeit being made from stone and not from wood, reminded […]


the line between old and new

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Today I went to an unimposing door: And behind that door, there was a caretaker: See the mark on his forehead? It usually means that he is a pious man who takes his prayers very seriously, as the Shia use little stones upon which they place their foreheads when they bow down to pray: Anyway, […]


your bleeding heart

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Through the help of my friend Mastaneh from Mashhad, I got a tourist guide today: She had the longest eyelashes I had ever seen, and Hanie was her name. We went to the Royal Mosque, walking around it from the side at first, so we could get a feel for its dimensions: Then we went […]


perfect square

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I arrived in Isfahan in the early morning: Isfahan. It was a name that I had read about in adventure novels before…Isfahan. The first thing I saw was the train station, though: I got a hotel room in the northern part of town, where I slept for a few hours, then I went out and […]


what to do with a week

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I woke up in a room that was clean, quiet, and cozy. And things got even better when I opened the door to the living room and found out that we were about to have breakfast: Staying with my friend Bahman and his wife was the best: It made me wonder why I had not […]


paralyze me

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I felt bad today. Tired. Lacking motivation. Disgusted by the roaches. Annoyed by the people who had stolen my money. There was a plan in the making: I was going to go to Taiwan in about one week from now in order to promote my books there. Then I was going to go to Germany […]


like a ghost with the money

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I decided to go back to the bazaar: It was located right next to the Holy Shrine, so I hung out there for a while: And I marveled at the fact that a lot of Mashhad’s traffic apparently passed through a maze of tunnels right under the Shrine: Then I went back to the hotel. […]


what is slow?

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Another day in the old hotel: I went out for a sandwich once: It was a surprisingly good sandwich. Something was strange, though. There was this slow and lazy atmosphere in the air, something that made me just wanna sleep all day. I wasn’t sure if it was the city, this part of the city, […]


little goat, don’t die

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My hotel was supposed to be the oldest in the city, and it showed. But I found it nice to have my own little space anyway. Stayed in all day: Went out after nightfall and walked around the neighborhood. Some of the courtyards looked quite interesting: Then I met up with Shiva and her friends: […]


Between Jaffar And The Throne

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One more day. My clothes in the hotel laundry, “The Good Wife” on my phone, the GPS track growing, the photos and videos finding their places on my hard drive: I felt a bit worried: what was walking in Iran going to be like? Would there be more plainclothes policemen to grab me? And where […]


With The Iron Fist Of Tyranny

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I stayed in today. Edited some photos and some videos. The Turkmenistan footage seemed like a mountain in front of me, and I was only slowly digging my way through. Also, I had acquired a bottle of Zamzam cola: Now those of you who’ve been with me long enough know that I love the Uyghur […]


The Grand Vizier JAFFAR Rules

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I decided that I needed a sim-card in order to access the interwebs. Also, I wanted to look at Iran. So I took my camera and went outside. The actual city was about a kilometer or two to the north of the hotel. On the way there I saw a lot of these signs: And […]


In The Sultan’s Absence

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When I woke up I was still somehow in this country that had previously existed only as an abstract thought – Iran. It was my first full day here. The room I was staying in was okay: There was wifi, but it was slow as hell. And I mean: AS HELL. I was so tired […]


the biggest city that died

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Today was my only day off in Turkmenistan. But it was going to be packed. The ruins of Merv to be looked at. Shoes to be bought. And we needed to stock up on food for the remainder of the trip. First we went to see the ruins. There was a gate with a ticket […]


royally afraid

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Remember how excited I was to find out that Tajikistan was apparently dominated not by Coca-Cola and not by Pepsi, but by Royal Crown Cola? I’m of course a Dr. Pepper guy, but I always appreciate the struggle of the underdog, so I was happy to see that RC is apparently launching a campaign into […]


under mud

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The Caboose seemed to be in good shape, which meant that no repairs were necessary, which in turn meant that I had the day off. I decided to check out the 8th/9th century Samanid Mausoleum, one of the oldest monuments in Central Asia: It had allegedly survived the Mongol invasion because it had been buried […]


farewell to all

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Sometimes it feels as if I’m traveling through all these places just to say good-bye to them. So I bid farewell to Tashkent today: I left it on a train in the evening. It was a good train, one of the new Afrosiob bullet trains that I had first been on several months ago. The […]