Tag Archives: Germany 🇩🇪

culiado

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This post is about a 16km walk from Nierstein to Mainz. We get drunk with Argentinians and have difficulties getting into Mainz. Did you hear that? I asked the weirdo. When we looked outside, we saw a green, train-like vehicle moving through the vineyards. A bunch of people were sitting in it, and they were […]


the worst war

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This post is about a 15km walk from Guntersblum to Nierstein. We rest at the castle ruins in Oppenheim, then we camp in the vineyards. Ah, so relaxed! After two and a half days in the winery we felt good again, and so we packed our stuff, bought another bottle of Xenia for the way, […]


to the wine!

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This post is about a 5km walk from Mettenheim to Guntersblum. We wake up in a pavilion in the vineyards and walk to a winery. I was just waking up, and the sky was still a shade of dark blue when I heard a bunch of kids riding past us on their bicycles. “Look, someone […]


deluxe camping experience

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This post is about a 17km walk from Worms to Mettenheim. We sleep in our tent even though we have paid for a hotel room. We did something stupid today. Or smart. But definitely stupid. We had paid for a hotel room in Worms, and the payment was non-refundable. And yet we decided to leave […]


oh, when I get low

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This post is about a day of sightseeing in Worms. We see the Martin Luther Monument, the cathedral, and the Nibelung Museum. Worms was one of the places most closely associated with Martin Luther. It hadn’t gone down well with the Catholic church that Luther had asked for reforms in 1517, and a few years […]


chemical streets

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This post is about a 22km walk from Ludwigshafen to Worms. We walk along the BASF chemical plant for a long time. Walking out of Ludwigshafen felt a bit weird. Everything was either made of asphalt or concrete, the residential buildings seemed to be mostly prefab, and there were flyovers everywhere. At least some of […]


a stone on a grave

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This post is about a 25km walk from Speyer to Ludwigshafen. We visit the Jewish cemetery of Speyer and walk late into the night. We went to the Jewish cemetery first. Or rather: we went to the part of the Christian cemetery that had been given to the Jewish community in the late 19th century. […]


where the Shapiros are from

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This post is about Jewish life in Speyer. We visit a museum holding the ruins of the old synagogue and the ritual bath. We stayed in Speyer for two days and looked around a little bit. Speyer wasn’t just a Königspfalz and the site of the Imperial Cathedral of Speyer, it was also home to […]


I’m becoming a car-hater and there’s nothing I wanna do about it

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This post is about a 13km walk from Lingenfeld to Speyer. We reach the Imperial Cathedral of Speyer, and so do a bunch of cars. We had spent the night on a lot for motorhomes. It was next to a campground that had closed for the season, and there were no amenities except for a […]


grown-ups like to get lost

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This post is about a 21km walk from Leimersheim to Lingenfeld. We learn about corn mazes and find a place that serves burgers. Swole Stefan had been right: Fritz, the owner of the farm with the corn maze, was a kind man. He let us pitch the tent under an overhanging roof on his premises, […]


without the wolf

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This post is about a 24km walk from Neuburg to Leimersheim. We walk through a town that prides itself on a dead wolf. We stayed in Neuburg for two days. The guesthouse was clean and quiet, and it was run by a friendly lady who really liked to talk about Mongolia. Her daughter-in-law was from […]


tipsy in the danger zone

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This post is about an 18km walk from Munchhausen to Neuburg. It’s the second border crossing into Germany. The last one, I think. We woke up on yet another campground. Again it was camper vans and mobile homes all around. Just almost no people at all. We brushed our teeth, packed up our stuff, fetched […]


isn’t it strange how dreams fade and shimmer?

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This post is about a 23km walk from Opfinger Lake to Neuf-Brisach. I have decided to take a detour through France just because. I had bivouacked next to the Opfinger See, an artificial lake in a forest. It was supposed to be very popular with bathing guests in the summer, but by now the season […]


and then?

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This post is about a 17km walk from Merzhausen to Opfinger Lake. I stock up on outdoor equipment and meet up with David from Mundologia. I had stayed at my friend’s place for a day. Went to the city and got a new pair of shoes (I always kept a spare pair in the Caboose) […]


descent

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This post is about a 25km walk from Hinterwaldkopf to Merzhausen. I lose almost 1000m in altitude on my way down towards Freiburg. Even though my thermarest had turned into a bouncy castle, it had been a surprisingly relaxing night. I fell asleep to the call of an owl and woke up to the singing […]


tiny houses

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This post is about an 18km walk from Titisee to Hinterwaldkopf. I see some miniature Black Forest houses and go higher into the hills. The campground was tightly packed with camper vans and full-sized motor homes. I had never seen this many of them in one place. They stood side by side on a terraced […]


let’s all go to the lake

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This post is about a 17km walk from Friedenweiler to Titisee. I arrive at Titisee and see a bunch of tourists and clocks. I stayed for two days in a cozy room under a pitched roof in a small guesthouse in a tiny village in the Black Forest. One time I decided that I wanted […]


silva nigra

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This post is about a 19km walk from Waldhausen to Friedenweiler. I suddenly find myself in the High Black Forest. I woke up next to an old mill. It had a silo that looked a bit like a guard tower. It had been a very good night, cool and refreshing in my tent under a […]


the source

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This post is about a 17km walk from Riedsee to Waldhausen. The Caboose and I reach Donaueschingen, the official source of the Danube. I woke up alone on a campground at Riedsee. Lea and Emmi had gone home the evening before, and so I was alone again. Alone with the Caboose and a deflated unicorn […]


1-7-0-0-0

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This post is about a 17km walk from Hintschingen to Riedsee. I cross the 17000km mark on The Longest Way, and a unicorn performs a dance. We woke up under the bridge near Hintschingen. It was hazy. I didn’t want to put on the unicorn costume anymore, but Lea wasn’t having any of it. “It’s […]