the oldest door and the fire

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I had an interview today with a charming local journalist called Olesya: We met for lunch, so I suggested we go to the place that made the best lagman in town. But of course this happened: It was closed. Of course it was closed. Abandoning the idea of having the best lagman in town, we […]


sizes of things

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When I woke up, the train was still rumbling along: The kids had been quiet for most of the night, so that was good. The hostel I usually stayed at in Tashkent didn’t have any rooms, so I did what I had been wanting to do since I came to Tashkent for the first time […]


funny looks

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Had a burger today: A bearded dude in a chic restaurant having a fancy burger. Hipster status achieved? Then I went to the train station: I was going to board the night train to Tashkent (the one that I had taken in the other direction two months earlier), but when I got there, a group […]


some nerdy stuff about maps

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I went to a food court today: The above picture looks more fancy than it really is. The food is simple and cheap. This is what I got: Then I did something I had been wanting to do for a long time – I updated the Google Earth file: It’s strange to think that this […]


popcorn and lollipops

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Walked around town and tried to buy a train ticket to Tashkent today. It took a while until I found the right ticket bureau. I’d tell you which one it was, but I forgot. Ha! Anyway, Almaty was nice in late summer: Once I had my ticket I went to a large shopping mall and […]


fear smothered in cake

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I wasn’t going to fly to Tashkent if I could avoid it. You might remember how I suddenly came to the realization that flying was bad for the environment a while ago. But I hated buses. So I decided to go to Almaty and take a train to Tashkent from there. Only first I went […]


independence day

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One of the most important things for me while I’m on the road is making sure my footage is secure. I try to do this by saving all of it on these 512GB SD-cards that I send home once they’re full: This is what I did today. Oh, and the friendly people at the dental […]


the filling

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I don’t even know if it’s called a “filling” or whatever. But something had been installed in one of my teeth a while ago by my dentist. And that something fell out last night when I was flossing. Fuggidifuck, I thought. So I picked up my Iranian visa, and then I went to the First […]


misogynist beats racist

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When I went and had breakfast this morning, I was surprised to see that the Mayweather-McGregor fight was on. Wasn’t it supposed to be a PPV thing? Well, here it was apparently on regular-ass tv. A couple of dudes were watching the fight: Later, some more dudes appeared, and we all found out that the […]


the v needs pickles

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It was the weekend, so I decided to take it easy and walk around town for a while. Bishkek, like many other places, seemed to look best in late summer, when it could show off its parks: It reminded me a lot of that time I had been here three years earlier, in the summer […]


Gotdog

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I went on my second visa run today. With both Uzbek and Turkmen visas in my passport, all I had to do was get an Iranian one, and I would be good to go. So I took a cab downtown, and then I started walking around: The Iranian Embassy had me go to some bank […]


visa bozo

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I wanted to get my Turkmen visa as soon as possible. So I got up early and flagged down a cab. Urmat, the driver, was a friendly guy who spoke good English. He took me to the Turkmen Embassy, but we arrived there an hour early (they opened at 10am). So we figured we might […]


out the door

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So I packed all my stuff together: Well, not all of it. I left some things in the room: a large towel, an inflatable mattress, a candle, a box of wash powder, a box of matches, the melon ball, a plastic cup, a 5-liter container of water. And then I was out the door: Into […]


Bye Issyk-Kul

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What a hangover… I was hardly able to move until late in the afternoon. Then I went out to say good-bye to the lake. I knew I was going to miss this place: I decided that eating was a good remedy against a hangover. So I went to the usual place and ordered the usual: […]


The Longest Party

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I felt good again. So I drank some more of my medicine: Just to be sure. And then I ventured out into the sun. This was when I found out that my usual way down to the beach was blocked: A construction site of sorts. Maybe a new sanatorium? I managed to find a way […]


PLESE!

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I had said everything I had wanted to say: Or at least I had tried: My application for an LOI, a Letter Of Invitation, from Turkmenistan was in the works, and all I could do at this point was hope that it would pass. Because no LOI meant no visa. Simple as that. I was […]


the last letter

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Okay, this is going to be the last one of my letter-selfies: The writing is on the forehead, so to speak. Except of course that I missed an e, and so it ended up spelling: “DEAR TURKMENISTAN PLESE GIVE ME A VISA THAAAAAAAAAANKS” Anyway. I did another taste test today, this time with Chalap, which […]


sunset with Priscilla

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I decided to take a selfie with a lemon today: At this point, I was having a lemon and a spoon of honey every single day. Sometimes I’d mix it up and not add vodka to my secret medicine, though: I think alcohol is like religion: it’s fun if you don’t overdo it. I spent […]


my dangling friend

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Another day with my scarf. I don’t know if you’ve noticed (maybe you don’t even care anymore), but the letters are reaching an end now: That’s right: N. Took another sunset timelapse today: And I wasn’t alone: I decided to name her Priscilla. She was keeping mosquitos and bugs away from me. So we were […]


artsy-fartsy

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My eyes were looking better. Much better actually: So I figured that the secret medicine must have worked. It seemed only logical to make more: Later that day, I went outside and had a bowl of spicy soup: It was very good, that soup. And on the way back I took an artsy-fartsy picture of […]