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This post is about an 28km walk from Ortaköy to Kerpe. I get lost a few times, and in the end I run into a pack of dogs.

When I woke up, my guest was still there. She stretched herself and demanded some more bread, then she left without so much as a goodbye. She was a one-night cat.

I went back to the tea house for some hot water and some tea. That’s when I learned that my guest had been the imam’s cat. What was her name, I wanted to know. They looked at me in confusion: her name? The cat’s name was cat.

way to go

There were two ways out of Ortaköy: I could either stick to the main road and end up in the coastal resort town of Kefken after about 15km, or I could walk through the villages. The map showed a road leading west in an almost straight line. I decided to take that road.

I got some bread, some cheese, two tomatoes, and an onion in a roadside store. That was going to be lunch. I made oatmeal with the hot water from Ortaköy. That was breakfast.

Then I got lost.

no way

I walked with confidence and conviction until I ended up in a dead end. There was a farm. Not wanting to believe that I was going the wrong way, I tried to look for a way around the farm, but of course there was none. There were only chickens, and at some point a very old lady appeared and looked at me as if I was a ghost.

It took me some more getting lost until I finally understood that the straight road leading west was a lie. The road wasn’t a road at all – it was the very same trench that I had seen the day before. It just looked a bit different here in the forest and the hills.

the dogs

I decided to have lunch and then throw out the original plan and just walk to Kefken. When I saw a bike shop I stopped and asked the owner if he could check the air pressure in my tyres. He insisted on doing it for free.

Kefken was dark and quiet when I reached it. I noticed that there was another town on the map that also had guesthouses. It was called Kerpe, and it was a bit west of Kefken. So I decided to walk there. A walk from Ortaköy to Kerpe, that didn’t sound so bad.

The road was absolutely dark. There were no houses and no lights. The only things that I could see without my head torch were the stars and the glow of Kerpe in the distance. I decided to stop and take a photo of myself and the Caboose walking through the night. It was a bit difficult because it was a long exposure with a timer, and because I had to wait for a car to drive past and illuminate the scene with its headlights.

And then, when that picture was done, I ran into the dogs. First I only heard them, which was when I got out my stick. Then, as I came closer and their barking got louder, I saw their eyes glowing in the darkness, and then I saw their shapes in the darkness.

There were big dogs and small dogs, maybe a dozen of them, or maybe more. Most of them were just being very loud, but a few of them were making that sound where the barking is beginning to be mixed with growling. I clutched my stick, I tried to hide my fear, and I kept walking.


In the tea house of Ortaköy:

In the tea house of Ortaköy

Landscape near Ortaköy:

landscape near Ortaköy

Village shop:

village shop on the walk from Ortaköy to Kerpe

Why are some of these houses on stilts?

house on stilts on the walk from Ortaköy to Kerpe

Not sure if this was intended as political messaging or just a convenient cover:

pro-Erdogan poster

This view actually looks kinda like my home in Germany:

where Turkey looks like the Deister

Oatmeal for breakfast:

oatmeal on the walk from Ortaköy to Kerpe

Getting lost on the walk from Ortaköy to Kerpe:

getting lost on the walk from Ortaköy to Kerpe

The trench (that wasn’t a walkable road):

the trench between Ortaköy and Kerpe

Roadside lunch with a dog trying to mentally manipulate me:

roadside lunch

Fields in the evening sun:

sunset near Kefken

Bike shop near Kefken:

Bike shop near Kefken

Kefken at night:

Kefken at night

The road from Kefken to Kerpe, right before the dogs:

the road from Kefken to Kerpe

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