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This post is about an 18km walk from Akcakoca to Karaburun. I follow a highway along the coast, and I am angry all day.

One thing I did over the past few days when I was down with a cold in a small hotel room that smelled like smoke: I deleted more than half of this blog. First I only got rid of a post here and there. Then I decided that only the walking posts were allowed to live, and I axed all the rest.

It wasn’t easy. My heart bled as I was doing it. But I felt that it was the right thing to do.

hating all the things

Then I started walking. I didn’t feel 100% fine just yet, but I wanted to leave and get closer to Istanbul and the goddamned bridge problem – none of the bridges over the Bosporus were open to foot traffic, and it was haunting me.

It was an angry walk. I thought about things that bothered me, and how there were so many of them. All the work I had put into my blog bothered me. The bridge problem bothered me. Health issues bothered me. Traffic bothered me. Angry dogs bothered me. People who refused to get vaccinated bothered me. Not getting my book out in English bothered me. Having used up half of the days I could spend in Turkey bothered me. Social media bothered me.

So many things bothered me.

And so I walked through Akcakoca, and I didn’t talk to anyone. I didn’t even stop for food. I just ate two bananas (angrily) and tossed their peels into a trash can (furiously).

It was miserable. I hated everything.


When I reached Karaburun I noticed a sign that said PANSIYON. “Room?” I asked, and I couldn’t do it in the grumpy way that came naturally. I had to be polite. Also, there were some kids playing on the sidewalk, and they were adorable. So I asked “room?” in the nicest way I could.

The guesthouse was small and had no hot water, and there was a flimsy-looking electric heater in the room. It reminded me of a place I had stayed at 14 years earlier when I was still not very far from Beijing. But it was better than spending the night outside. Also, the owners were very nice. They gave me a bowl of soup and some buckwheat and salad.

And they let me play with their little dog. The dog had some sort of birth defect that had caused one of his legs to be in the wrong position altogether. I told them it was nice that they were taking care of the dog. They said they had picked him out of eight puppies, all of which were healthy. They had just wanted this one, and they had a surgery planned for him in the coming week.

It was like rain on the barren wasteland of my heart.


Leaving Akcakoca:

walk from Akcakoca to Karaburun

I am not sure if anyone lives in this house or not:

old house in Akcakoca

The hills near Akcakoca:

hills between Akcakoca and Karaburun

The road to walk from Akcakoca to Karaburun:

the road to walk from Akcakoca to Karaburun

The guesthouse in Karaburun:

Karaburun guesthouse


dinner in Karaburun

Electric heater:

electric heater

  • Kevin Chambers

    Interesting how we go through anger valleys sometimes but some small thing – like kindness to a dog, will bring us out of that valley. Honestly, meditating has helped me get out of those valleys faster now.

    I’m surprised you are apparently having difficulty finding a publisher for your English books. They are going to be travel classics I predict. I want the First Edition of them.

    I’m not sure I understand why you deleted parts of your blog? I enjoy re-reading it.


  • Claudia



  • Steffi J.

    Selbst mir beim Lesen deines Berichtes viele Tage , nachdem du so wütend warst, geht das Herz auf am Ende deines Beitrages , als es um den kleinen Hund geht. 🙂 Und ich sagte es ja schon mal, ich freue mich für dich, dass du immer wieder freundliche , hilfsbereite Menschen findest, die dir am Ende eines Tages etwas Gutes tun. Weihnachten rückt näher, wo wirst du dann sein? Liebe Grüße aus Dresden, Steffi


  • Laurenz

    I really enjoyed reading the rest-day posts, as someone who is interested in long hiking trips as well it’s part of the experience and I always like to hear from others how they do it. Could it be possible that you put them on a separate page on the website? I respect your decision anyway though, it’s your project.


  • John

    Hey Chris. There are bound to times when nothing seems to go right, but you are still moving forward. Whatever you get from it all will be worth it in the end.
    A question, perhaps you’ve answered already. Are all of the walking posts still online? From the beginning in November, 2007? I hope so. I’d hate to think that others may not have the pleasure of following you for 14 years.
    Hang in there, stay well. Keep moving, and I’m toasting some baiju to you tonight.
    Merry Christmas, too!


  • Iza

    Hi Kriss, Please do not delete your posts while you are resting. Recently, I’ve been browsing your older posts from 2017 and it was very interesting how you described the places where you slept. The parts you don’t go are also important. This allows us to feel the atmosphere of your trip.


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