fire ornaments

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The sun should have come up at 6:30, and it probably did.

Nasiromolk from outside

But – much to everyone’s regret – it had apparently chosen to remain hidden behind a layer of clouds. Maybe it wasn’t aware that it had an audience.

Nasiromolk before the sun

It took until 8:28 for the sun to finally come out, and when it did, it gracefully and generously lit the windows and the carpets of the mosque on fire.

Someone went: “aw!”

Nasiromolk in the sun

I think it was me.

The mosque was called Nasiromolk, and it wasn’t really that old – end of the 19th century – but it was very famous for its colorfully ornamented windows. Most of the ornaments looked like flowers, and there was something grandmotherly and unimpressive about them as long as they were in the shade. But when the sun did hit them, they burned in bright reds, blues, yellows, and greens.

sunlight in Nasiromolk

And the carpets burned, too.

A few dozen people were there, wandering around and taking photos in the mosque. Most of them were Chinese and loud, but then a bunch of Iranians appeared who turned out to be even louder.

people taking photos in Nasiromolk

There was lots of portrait photography: person leaning against the wall, looking lost in thought – click.

80s album cover

Person kneeling in front of the colorful windows, eyes closed – click.

more photos in Nasiromolk

Sad to think that most of the photos would probably turn out to look like 80s album covers.

selfie in Nasiromolk

I thought that actually the pillars and the arches of the structure seemed to be more interesting than the ornamented windows. They had been chiseled and put together in spectacularly small details, and there was an overlying sense of harmony while each one of them was different from all the others. But they had nothing on the windows, simply because they didn’t shine when the light hit them.

Nasiromolk pillars

Poor pillars.
Poor arches.

The Qavam House (or Naranjestan, as it is also called), the estate of a rich family from the 19th century, didn’t care about any of this.

Qavam House

It was basically a large symmetrical garden with a palace-like building in it. The building had a mirror hall that reminded me of the Golestan Palace in Tehran.

mirrors in Qavam House

Oh, and there were a bunch of miniature paintings that had a certain European vibe to them:

miniature in Qavam House

Little kids wearing hats in the summer.

winter miniature in Qavam House

Little kids wearing hats in the winter.



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