Monthly Archives: August 2018

dรถner and beer

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Leaving Iran meant missing my friends and the fantastic stew dishes. But it also meant being finally able to legally drink again. With this in mind, I had purchased a bottle of local vodka that had looked at me and said “buy me, Chris, look at how pretty I am, Chris, buy me, buy me, […]


walking on clam shells

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When I went to the roundabout today, there was a different bus in the exact same spot: I lingered around for a while, then I decided to go to the beach: It was about a kilometer away. When I got there, I noticed an area near the water that was entirely covered in clam shells: […]


destination Baku

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Today, as I went outside to take my daily selfie, I ran into this gentleman sitting on the stairs next to a roundabout: He said his name was Muhammad Ali, which seemed a bit strange because people who passed by used a different name to refer to him. I called him Muhammad Ali anyway, since […]


light up the stage and wax a chump like a candle

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I wasn’t going to do anything today. I was going to rest and rest and rest, and do nothing. That was my plan. But then I figured I should go out and buy a local sim-card. So I did that, and I added it to the others: Then I thought of my shoes, and how […]


scared

I woke up with a knot in my stomach. It was fear. Many months ago, when I was walking through Mashhad, two men saying they were police (and showing me ID) had demanded to see my papers and my money, and they had stolen a hundred dollars from me. I had made a blog post […]


hospitality and a cow

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The rain had been so strong I had woken up in the middle of the night because of the hammering noise that it made on the roof. But when I got up in the morning, the rain was gone, and so were the clouds, and it was almost as if nothing had ever happened: I […]


they build their castles

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When I left Talesh, I was looking at a distance of about 30 or 35 kilometers with no place to sleep. That meant the possibility of having to camp. But I was in a better mood than the day before. The highway was hugging the hills, and the hills were rolling: I sat in the […]


The Grumpiest Way

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It was going to be a short, easy day. But when I woke up, I felt grumpy. I had no idea why I was that way. Maybe I was just tired. Maybe it had to do with hormones or something. The only thing I did know was that I did not want to talk to […]