Monthly Archives: July 2018

lemon cake

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The heat wasn’t the problem. The heat combined with the humidity was. It felt like a steam bath. Just a few minutes after I left the hotel I was drenched in sweat. The streets of Ramsar were empty: As you can see on the map, I tried to avoid the coastal highway as much as […]


the darkness and the mystery

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I had walked a bit too much the day before: up to the old hotel and around it a few times and then to a restaurant and back through the city to the place where I was staying. All in all about 15km give or take. So today I stayed in, edited my videos and […]


the age of moss

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Ramsar was full of big fat villas: I was told that they were from pre-revolutionary times, and that well-connected people from Tehran lived in them today. And also Arabs. In Iran, the spectre of the rich Arab who came to buy stuff and live the high life was never very far. Though personally I had […]


120 cookies

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Woke up and looked at the Caspian Sea: It was angry. There were signs like this all along these parts of the shore: I wondered if this was because the water was polluted or because the currents were stronger here. It didn’t matter. I had come to walk, not to swim. These two gentlemen stopped […]


looks cool

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I was happy when I looked outside and saw clouds. Maybe walking would be more tolerable this way? Well, it was. Kind of. While the clouds did provide some cover from the sun, the overall humidity meant that everything was still hot and sticky anyway. I walked in short intervals and rested a lot: Sometimes, […]


watching the game, selling a fruit

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I had arrived at the hotel at one thirty the night before, and I had slept at three. So I felt a bit groggy when I stepped out into the sunshine at about ten in the morning and said hello to this flower: “You look like shit”, the flower said. “I know”, I answered, “you […]


sweat

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At about ten in the morning I stepped out of the door and into the North. In Iran, the Caspian Sea Coast was called “the North”, and people in Tehran had warned me about it. It wasn’t just hot there in the North, they had said, it was also humid as hell. But I, having […]


the axle rose

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The Caboose was not well. One of her wheels (the spare) had badly damaged ball bearings, a problem that had become acute two weeks earlier, when I had arrived in Chalus from Chalandar. “No worries, it’s just the spare!” I would tell myself, “I can get it fixed somewhere along the way!” But what good […]


homemade

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This project, which I call The Longest Way, and which nominally revolves around the activity of walking, seems to entail quite a bit of motorized transport. Airplanes. Trains. Buses. Taxis. “Hey, I’m walking home from China to Germany, here’s a picture of me in a cab!” Anyway, here’s a picture of Tehran through a cab […]


big and small

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Tehran looked busy and big in most places, and often it seemed to be screaming at you at the top of its lungs. But there was also an old part of town that consisted of tiny little alleys where cars rarely went and where the big city sounds stayed outside: A great place to get […]


Iran Light

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My research on the travel site Caravanistan had led me to a restaurant that I wanted to try. It was called Gol Rezaeih, and it was apparently 75 years old: It turned out to be awesome. The atmosphere, the food, and the fact that it was still there. I loved it. Tehran was very different […]