Monthly Archives: June 2018

a motel on Chamran street

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The motel was located right next to the beach. And I mean literally right next to it. It was even closer to the Caspian Sea than the sanatorium in Kaji-Say had been to lake Issyk-kul one year earlier. When I wanted to go down to the beach, I would step out of my room and […]


hype

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Babolsar was one of the prime tourist destinations in this part of the country. So it was crowded. In fact it swarmed with people, and I was told that many of them were from the area of Mashhad, where I had been just a few months earlier. It felt only logical that people from a […]


why you should have long hair

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First things first: having long hair sucks, and it sucks hard. Depending on your hair’s texture, you have to use a conditioner when you shower, and you have to brush after. It takes ages for your hair to dry, too. And it gets everywhere. It’s really just annoying. But, if you have long hair, and […]


Ebrahim’s Angels

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There was a shrine right next to where I was staying: Imamzadeh Ebrahim. Word had it that he was a brother of Imam Reza, the gentleman to whom the huge shrine in Mashhad was dedicated. I decided to go check it out. It was a medium-sized shrine: Behind it (in fact, all around it) was […]


bamboo torture

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Turns out Juybar, this inconspicuous little town between the mountains and the Caspian Sea, is the center of Iranian wrestling. And since Iran as a nation is pretty good at wrestling, Juybar is arguably also one of the main centers of wrestling in the world. There are monuments and posters dedicated to wrestling all over […]


let’s take a snail

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When I left my hotel this morning and the owner asked for a photo of us together, I decided to post it along with all other photos I was going to take with people along the way: But first it was just easy walking through the quiet parts of Sari: Here’s selfie number 2 with […]


super healthy cookie

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I remember telling you about the awesome apricots I bought on the way yesterday. But I didn’t show you what they looked like: Or were they peaches? Either way it was: omnomnomnom. Why always apricots, though? Turns out the eternal question of apricots or peaches is actually quite simple: if you have a place to […]


Iranians love chandeliers

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I felt like moving, but just within the city. I didn’t want to leave Sari, and neither did I want to leave my friends. However, I felt like it was time I gave them and me some space and stopped my occupation of their living room. So I packed up the Caboose and stepped out […]


PUNKS not DEAD

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Another slow day. A day of friendly banter, of food and of drink. One thing you realize rather early in Iran is that the people here like to eat rather late. I have had many “lunches” that were at three in the afternoon (or even at four or five), and dinner is often at nine […]


the (not so silent) silent place

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I was going to rest up in Sari for a few days. So today my friends took me to an historical madrasa in a village outside of the city: It was apparently from the Safavid period, which would make it a few hundred years old. Either way I loved it. It was beautiful and quiet: […]