Monthly Archives: April 2018

waterfall of words

Posted on

“Do you want to have lunch with a tour group from Australia?” my friend Mastaneh from Mashhad asked me. Of course! I said. It was always good to have lunch, and I needed a break from doing my laundry: I have come to believe that washing machines are among the best inventions of humankind. So […]


weird drinks in the land of no drinks

Posted on

I woke up, and things were good. It was my day off, the first of three to be exact. The last few walking days had taken their toll on me, and I was happy to just stay in and do some laundry. I had rented the biggest room in the hotel, mainly because it wasn’t […]


space invaders

Posted on

The night had seen rain: So I gave the Caboose her orange cover, and then we set out: It was miserable walking next to the highway with the drizzle and the cold and the trucks coming our way like Space Invaders: Remember I told you about the memorials to the fallen soldiers from the Iran-Iraq […]


the pilgrim

Posted on

When I woke up everything was swell, and the village was totally quiet. Only old folks and young children on the street. I ran into this tractor driver and asked him if there was a road to Quchan that led through the villages: He said no. So I walked in the direction of the highway, […]


into orchards

Posted on

I wanted to continue on the nice quiet country roads, so I asked the people of the eco-lodge in Radkan to help me come up with a roadmap to Quchan, and they did: It was basically going to be village hopping. The road was so quiet it was mezmerizing: One time I ran into a […]


blanky and the Safavids

Posted on

You might have already guessed it. I wasn’t ready to leave this place, yet. Instead I chose to stay another day, curled up on one of the beds outside in the courtyard: Temperatures had dropped, so I was happy I had my sleeping bag and my trusted Blanky with me. I was reading a book […]


likabaows

Posted on

I woke up with my first blister since Mashhad, and it wasn’t on my foot. It was on my finger. Also, I had a very shitty song stuck in my head. But none of this was bad, because the day was just swell. With Nowruz (the Persian New Year) behind us, the peak tourist season […]


please tell me it used to be all blue!

Posted on

A friend had told me about a village called Radkan northwest of Chenaran. It had an ancient tower and an eco-lodge where I would be able to stay. I decided to walk there, but not on the main highway. Instead, I was going to try to find a way through the countryside. I wasn’t sure […]


…looking for something

Posted on

I woke up with a Eurythmics song stuck in my head. There are definitely worse ear worms to have. Sweet Dreams. So I went about doing my laundry, humming: Are Made Of This. Then I went out and marvelled at the empty city, humming: Who Am I. Bought some bread, humming: To Disagree. Got two […]


hotel hunt

Posted on

When I woke up in the mosque, and its doors were still shut and my things were still there, and the morning light came shining in from outside, I felt relieved. I was tired as hell, though. So I slowly packed up my stuff, then I turned back and took a last look at the […]