Monthly Archives: October 2017

water boiler

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Another day, another sandwich: I’d sort my maps and my photos and my videos and my diary and my blog entries. I’d also take little walks through the neighborhood, where the chadors were plenty: I’d drink lots and lots of tea, the water for which I’d get from a large water boiler in the basement: […]


a sad potato

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Had a tasty Iranian dish for breakfast today, a sort of porridge called halim: I had it with Leila and her husband, who were determined to have me try as many Iranian dishes as possible: We went to a teahouse after this: And on the way, I saw a heartbroken potato: It was very sad. […]


bureaumania

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My visa was valid until October 22nd. So far so good. But I would fly out of Tehran on October 25th (to Taiwan, then to Germany, for some book promos and some presentations). So I needed to extend my visa, and for that, I needed to print out some documents (like my flight tickets and […]


what is slow?

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Another day in the old hotel: I went out for a sandwich once: It was a surprisingly good sandwich. Something was strange, though. There was this slow and lazy atmosphere in the air, something that made me just wanna sleep all day. I wasn’t sure if it was the city, this part of the city, […]


little goat, don’t die

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My hotel was supposed to be the oldest in the city, and it showed. But I found it nice to have my own little space anyway. Stayed in all day: Went out after nightfall and walked around the neighborhood. Some of the courtyards looked quite interesting: Then I met up with Shiva and her friends: […]


Mashhad

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Woke up in Hassan’s place, had breakfast, watched some cartoons on the tele. We took some pictures of Hassan: And of his little daughter Mahdiye: Hassan insisted that we comb my hair (he had been a barber at one point in his life), and I suffered in silence: It was all very relaxed: Then we […]


The Longest Meal

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Today I learned that this was in fact not Hassan’s place, but that of Mahdi, his son-in-law. How did I find out about this? Well, because Hassan asked me if I wanted to come over. To his place. But first we properly gorged ourselves. We had breakfast: And then we watched some TV and had […]


and when I say perfect

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So I left the village of Abravan, and I saw it become smaller and smaller in the distance: Passed another melon stand: And then the industrial outskirts of Iran’s second largest city, Mashhad, started to appear: It was becoming increasingly clear that Iran, just like the other countries on my way, had a trash problem: […]


decorated cars

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I left the madrasa early in the morning, and when I did, almost everyone else was in class already. Some of the guys had come to see me off, and I decided to take my Let’s Walk video right there: And then I was back on the road: One time a large herd of sheep […]


all the verses

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The night had been a bit bright with the lights of the mosque, and it had been a bit noisy with the people who came to rest, drink some water, or wash their hands from time to time. But it was okay. I left early in the morning: Saw a shepherd: Saw a truck: Many […]


Sepultachios

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Started walking at six thirty in the morning. There was a mountain range ahead that I would have to cross today, so I needed all the time I could get. Walked past the mosque: And past the village: There were many buildings that looked abandoned: And then I was on the road that led into […]