next pahlava in Baku?

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Today was good.

There was only a tiny hint of sadness, because I found out that the Azeri food joint where I would get my dosage of pahlava until just a few months ago had been closed and demolished:

This was something typical of cities in this part of the world (China included) – everything changed rather quickly. Shops would spring open and disappear, restaurants would be hip for a while, and then they would close down and you would have to look for a new place somewhere else.

Life was more dynamic than in Europe. But it was also less secure.